As might be anticipated from its having so long been the residence
of the most eminent prelate in the Low Countries, Liege abounds in
churches, there being some eighteen or twenty for a population of
50,000 inhabitants. They are, however, destitute of all attractions,
except that of St. Jacques, which is a very excellent example of
florid got his architecture. The others are common-place structures,
devoid of all valuable decorations of any kind, except a few
indifferent statues by Delcour the sculptor, who was himself a native
of the city. The Palais de Justice was formerly the residence of the
Prince Bishops, and in its ample arcades, supported by truncated
columns, exhibits traces of its former magnificence. The University,
which has some eminent professors, especially of natural philosophy,
was another foundation of the King of Holland, and besides a library of
some seventy or eighty thousand volumes, contains Museums of Natural
History, and Minerals of unusual value. But every thing connected with
modern Liege is common-place and uninteresting; its only charm is its
exquisite situation at the juncture of the three beautiful valleys
of the Meuse, the Ourthe and the Vesdre, and a very brief sojourn is
sufficient to satisfy the stranger in pursuit of “fresh fields and
pastures new.”
* * * * *
We left Liege before breakfast for Verviers through the exquisite
valley of the Vesdre, which, as it is narrower and more tortuous than
the descent of the Meuse, excels it in picturesque beauty, though
inferior in the grandeur of its general effect. The entire line of the
road was through richly wooded glens and ravines, where the river had
forced a passage between the fantastic cliffs which time had wrought
into shapes like fortresses or the battlements of ruined strongholds.
Below, the Vesdre itself, too shallow to be navigated, twists round
each sweep of the winding cliffs, now shining in the sunlight, and
again scarcely visible under the dark shadows of the trees and rocks.
The lover of the picturesque will shudder to be told, that it is
through this charming valley that the railroad is to be carried to
connect Liege with Verviers on its way to Cologne, and even now the
engineers are at work levelling, blasting, and uprooting to make way
for it, cutting off a projecting cliff here, and filling up a useless
ravine there, and flinging lofty embankments across the entrance of
the sweetest recesses of the valley, into which you are only admitted
to have a peep through the archway on which the train is to traverse
the highway.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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