“--better to bear the ills we have,
Than fly to others we know not of.”
If, under the successive sovereignties of Austria and France, and as
an integral portion of that of Holland, she had not the poetical
satisfaction of being “a nation instead of a province,” she had, at
least, the substantial enjoyments of liberty, wealth and remunerative
industry, blessings which even “hereditary bondsmen” might hesitate to
exchange for bigotry, poverty and decay.
CHAPTER V.
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.
Change in the aspect of the country in crossing the frontier from
Belgium into Prussia--Passports no real inconvenience--Anecdote
of a Jamaica planter--First view of AIX-LA-CHAPELLE--Its
population and employments--_Insurrection of the patriots in
1830_--Its absurd termination--The Cathedral of Charlemagne--Its
architecture--Donation of Mary, Queen of Scots--THE TOMB
OF CHARLEMAGNE--His singular mode of interment--The relics
in the treasury--The Redoute--Gaming discountenanced in
Prussia--_The Hotel de Ville_--Statue and fountain of
Charlemagne--Environs of Aix agreeable--Political condition
of the Trans-Rhenan provinces of Prussia--_Excellent posting
arrangements_--Improvement suggested in England--Aspect of the
country to Juliers--JULIERS--_Neuss_--Trade in crushing oil
might be advantageously introduced in Ireland--The church of St.
Quirinus--The Rhine.
WITHOUT any material change in the general aspect of the country, a
hundred little incidental matters quickly apprize the stranger who has
crossed the Belgian frontier, that he has passed into Prussia. The
jolting of the pavé is changed, in an instant, for the smooth roll of
macadamization: instantaneously, instead of the French he has been
accustomed to, he is saluted in German by the douaniers: every stake
and wooden bar about the custom-house is accurately ring-streaked, like
a barber’s pole, only with white and black instead of crimson--and
the lumbering post boy of Belgium, with a half Hibernian license of
costume, is replaced by the trim postilion, in his military uniform,
and trumpet slung across his shoulder, with a profusion of worsted lace
and tassels. The aspect of the country, too, is different, and the
broad, French-like, sweeps of hill and valley, which extend through
Limbourg, became broken up into wide inclosures, diversified with
abundance of woods and luxuriant plantings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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