Big Bend National Park, TexasUnited States. National Park Service. Division of Publications
History
Big Bend National Park, Texas
United States. National Park Service. Division of Publications
Big Bend National Park (Tex.)
At 3,000 meters (10,000 feet) the golden eagle glides on outspread
wings, his head cocked down so he can watch for signs of life upon that
motionless desert rolled out like a relief map below him. Largest of Big
Bend’s airborne predators, the eagle needs an enormous hunting range,
and riding the warm air currents high above the border, he can see it
all: the flattopped and arched mountains, the sun-bleached lowland, and
the silver Rio Grande disappearing and reappearing as it runs downstairs
through steep canyons and open valleys. Tilting his two-meter (7-foot)
wings, the eagle slipslides for a closer look into a canyon, spots the
wake of a surface-swimming snake, folds his wings, and dives like a
fighter jet. Before the snake even senses its peril, it is snatched
aloft and hangs wriggling in the eagle’s talons as the great bird,
feathered to the toes, lifts and flies up the canyon with mighty,
measured wingbeats.
The waters dripping from the hapless snake’s body come from mountains
far to the south and north. The Rio Grande begins in springs and snows
high in Colorado’s Rockies, but backed into reservoirs and doled out to
irrigate New Mexico and Texas farmlands, it may hardly even flow below
El Paso. What gives the river a new lease on life is the Rio Conchos.
This beautiful stream rises in the western Sierra Madres and flows
northeastward across Mexico, cutting canyons of its own and joining the
Rio Grande at Presidio, 160 river-kilometers (100 river-miles) above the
park. Some geologists say it was the Rio Conchos, and not the Rio
Grande, that cut those gorgeous canyons in the park. No one knows for
sure. But once the river trapped itself, all it could do was dig deeper
and deeper by processes that are still at work today.
A walk along a sandbar will show you that the river functions as a
practical sorting machine. The water rolling by is so laden with
sediment that you cannot even see rocks 13 centimeters (5 inches) below
the surface. On the bar itself a layer of curling and flaking mud lies
on top of the larger stones and gravel, which have fine sand deposited
between them. The heaviest rocks settle out first, then the sand, and
finally the finest particles. Water is a powerful lifting and pushing
tool, but these water-borne abrasives do much of the river’s work,
wearing out the rock, undercutting cliffs, deepening and widening the
canyons. It goes on at normal stages of water where the river runs less
than a meter (2-3 feet) deep, during floods when it crests at more than
6 meters (20 feet), and even during droughts when in many places the
river is too shallow to float a boat. So in the slow course of geologic
time the mountains are worn away, spread across the valleys, and carried
out to sea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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