Big Bend National Park, TexasUnited States. National Park Service. Division of Publications
History
Big Bend National Park, Texas
United States. National Park Service. Division of Publications
Big Bend National Park (Tex.)
Different kinds of grasses have adapted themselves to different soils
and altitudes and grow in company with different co-dominant plants. In
colorful sequence the grasses create a three-dimensional mosaic that
begins on the edges of the shrub desert, covering the foothills and
running up through the woodlands out onto mountaintop meadows. You can
see these differences quite easily.
[Illustration: The U.S. Boundary Survey trekking the Big Bend
country in 1852 encountered this Lipan Apache warrior. His portrait
came to adorn the survey report.]
Let’s say it’s ten o’clock on a fine fall morning, and you are driving
from Rio Grande Village up to the Basin. You find shrub desert all
around you at first, with the usual creosotebush, ocotillo, and
pricklypear. The only grass you see grows in a buff-colored strip on
either side of the road, where runoff from infrequent rains creates a
habitat moist enough for grasses to germinate and reach maturity. But
after you pass 900 meters (3,000 feet) of elevation you begin to see the
first sparse bunches of chino grama spotted here and there across the
desert. Somewhere just below the Dugout Wells turnoff you find quite a
bit of bunch grass among the bushes. Almost imperceptibly the chino
thickens until at 1,000 meters (3,500 feet) the hillsides appear cobbled
over with lumps the color of gray rock. It appears that you couldn’t
step down without stubbing your toe against a clump of gray-green grass
or lechuguilla. Soon all the slopes are patterned yellow and gray-green
as solid stands of lechuguilla crowd into the chino grama. The grass is
so thick now that scaled quail hunt seeds along the roadside and
cottontail rabbits bounce jauntily across in the mid-morning sunlight.
The colors you see owe much to the angle of the sun, but at about 1,200
meters (4,000 feet), near Panther Junction, the plants themselves add a
soft new hue, the beautiful silver-blue of ceniza shrubs. Bunches of
vivid green grass crop up amid the tawny three-awns by the roadside, and
the tops of the tarbush are brushed with yellow. Rock, gravel, grass,
and shrub blend together in shades of tan, gray, green, and blue
pinpointed by Christmas-red fruits on the guayacan, with once again vast
gardens of chartreuse lechuguilla and skeleton-leaf goldeneye shrubs.
These rolling grasslands have much less pricklypear and creosotebush,
and they have a lower profile than the shrub desert. Here and there the
Torrey yucca lifts its shaggy head high, but the whole land surface
looks somehow smoother, less hob-nailed than before.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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