"Athens in six hours," Mr Smith observes, is rather quick work; but he nevertheless found he could see in that time nearly as much of it as he wished. The Scamandre allowed but a day, and certainly he made good use of the brief halt. At Athens, as in Switzerland and on the Rhine, he found the ubiquitous _Murray's Handbook_ the great authority and certificate of the native competitors for custom. A skirmish with clubs and boat-hooks--the former brought evidently in anticipation of the contest--took place amongst the fancy-ball-looking boatmen, in white petticoats and scarlet leggings, who crowded in light skiffs round the foot of the steamer's ladder. In the intervals of the fight a dialogue was carried on in English, more or less broken. "'I say, sir! here, sir! Hotel d'Orient is the best. Here's the card, sir--old palace--Murray says ver good,' cried one of the costumes. "'Hi!' screamed another; 'don't go with him, master--too dear! Come with me?' "The parties were immediately engaged in single combat. "'Hotel d'Angleterre à Athènes, tenu par Elias Polichronopulos et Yani Adamopulos,' shouted another, all in a breath. I copy the names from the card he gave me, for they were such as no one could remember. "'Yes, sir; good hotel,' said his companion. 'Look in Murray, sir--page 24--there, sir; here, sir; look, sir!' "'Who believes Murray?' asked a fellow in plain clothes, with a strong Irish accent. "'You would, if he put your house in the Handbook,' replied another."