Proceeding to Tarsus, we pass on to Alexandretta, "a wretched
collection of hovels. The harbour is splendid; the ruins of the old,
the skeleton of the new town, standing on the beach. Behind it, in
every direction, stretches a fetid and swampy plain, which only
requires drainage to be rendered fertile and wholesome." This is the
seaport of Aleppo, on the road to which lies the town of Beilau,
and the village of Mortawan, where Pagan rites, especially those of
Venus, are still said to be maintained. But again we reimbark--
"Again the vessel cuts the wave. The mountains become a feeble
bleached outline, save Cassius on the north, who frowns on his
unrecorded fame. Yes, noble hill! though not so high as Strabo
tells, though not lofty and imposing; though dark thy path
now--unnoticed, solitary. There blazed up the last effort of the
flame of pagan civilisation: there Julian the Great--whatever
other title men may bestow upon him--offered his solemn
sacrifice to Jupiter the Avenger, previous to his last campaign,
when the eagles were to wave over Mesopotamia.
"The Sabbath dawned fresh, unclouded, and beautiful, as we
anchored in the pretty little port of Latakia, the ancient
Laodicea. The town of Latakia, built by Seleucus Nicator, in
honour of his mother, is comprehended in the Pashalic of Saida,
or Beyrout. It stands on a spur of the Ansayrii Mountains. About
half a mile inland, the spur falls into the sea, and forms Cape
Zairet; the town stands on its southern slope, and is joined,
by gardens and a port, to the sea. The port is small and well
sheltered; but time, Turks, and ruins, are filling it up. The
buildings on the shore, having their backs to the sea, present
the appearance of a fortification. On a reef of rock that
shelters the harbour stands a pile of building of different
eras. It seems to be castle, mosque, and church. Along the beach
lie hundreds of shafts of columns, and many are built into the
walls, of whose remains you catch a glimpse on the southern
side."
Here we must pause, though our traveller proceeds to Beyrout, of
which he gives a charming account, which our limits forbid us
to quote. We reserve our space for more novel scenes, and must
pass over a chapter on Damascus, which is rich in legends and
graphic pictures. Thence, _en route_ to Homs, by the way of the
desert, eastward of the Anti-Lebanon, we have a sketch that is too
characteristic of Eastern travel to pass over:--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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