Blackwood's Edinburgh magazine, Vol. 71, No. 439, May, 1852Various
History
Blackwood's Edinburgh magazine, Vol. 71, No. 439, May, 1852
Various
England -- Periodicals; Scotland -- Periodicals
“Fancy open and unfenced expanses of stunted-looking, scrubby
bushes, seldom rising two feet above the surface, planted in rows
upon the summit of deep furrow ridges, and fastened with great
care to low fence-like lines of espaliers, which run in unbroken
ranks from one end of the huge fields to the other. These
espaliers or lathes are cuttings of the walnut-trees around, and
the tendrils of the vine are attached to the horizontally running
slopes with withes, or thongs of bark. It is curious to observe
the vigilant pains and attention with which every twig has been
supported without being trained, and how things are arranged, so
as to give every cluster as fair a chance as possible of a goodly
allowance of sun. Such, then, is the general appearance of
matters; but it is by no means perfectly uniform. Now and then you
find a patch of vines unsupported, drooping, and straggling, and
sprawling, and intertwisting their branches like beds of snakes;
and again, you come into the district of a new species of bush, a
thicker, stouter affair, a grenadier vine, growing to at least six
feet, and supported by a corresponding stake. But the low,
two-feet dwarfs are invariably the great wine-givers. If ever you
want to see a homily, not read, but grown by nature, against
trusting to appearances, go to Medoc and study the vines. Walk and
gaze, until you come to the most shabby, stunted, weazened,
scrubby, dwarfish expanse of bushes, ignominiously bound neck and
crop to the espaliers, like a man on the rack—these utterly poor,
starved, and meagre-looking growths, allowing, as they do, the
gravelly soil to show in bald patches of grey shingle through the
straggling branches,—these contemptible-looking shrubs, like
paralysed and withered raspberries, it is which produce the most
priceless, and the most inimitably-flavoured wines. Such are the
vines that grow Chateau Margaux at half-a-sovereign the bottle.
The grapes themselves are equally unpromising. If you saw a bunch
in Covent Garden, you would turn from them with the notion that
the fruiterer was trying to do his customer with over-ripe black
currants. Lance’s soul would take no joy in them, and no sculptor
in his senses would place such meagre bunches in the hands and
over the open mouths of his Nymphs, his Bacchantes, or his Fauns.
Take heed, then, by the lesson, and beware of judging of the
nature of either men or grapes by their looks. Meantime, let us
continue our survey of the country. No fences or ditches you
see—the ground is too precious to be lost in such vanities—only,
you observe from time to time a rudely curved stake stuck in the
ground, and indicating the limits of properties. Along either side
of the road the vines extend, utterly unprotected. No raspers, no
ha-ha’s, no fierce denunciations of trespassers, no polite notices
of spring-guns and steel-traps constantly in a state of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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