Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Volume 60, No. 370, August 1846Various
History
Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Volume 60, No. 370, August 1846
Various
England -- Periodicals; Scotland -- Periodicals
The overwhelming recurrence, in truth, of
these entertainments, drains us annually of a handsome income; and
reading, as we do daily in the newspapers, how every grocer, on changing
his shop round the corner, and every professor of dancing, on being driven
by the surges of the Utilitarian system up another flight of stairs, must,
to felicitate or soothe him, receive the tribute or consolation of a
banquet and demonstration, we hold up our hands in amazement at the
opulence and deglutition of Scotland.
What shall become of us, driven further onwards still, by the impetus of
the Gastronomic Regenerator, we dare not foretell. The whole year may be a
circle of public feasts; and our institutions gradually, although with no
small velocity, relapse into the common table of Sparta. But never,
whispers Soyer, into the black broth of Lycurgus. And so he ensnares us
into the recognition of another fundamental principle, that the simplicity
of Laconian fare night be admirably appropriate for infant republics and
penniless helots, but can afford no subsistence to an overgrown empire,
and the possessors of the wealth of the world! Thus cookery marks, dates,
and authenticates the refinement of mankind. The savage cuts his warm
slice from the haunches of the living animal, and swallows it reeking from
the kitchen of nature. The civilized European, revolting from the dreadful
repast, burns, and boils, and stews, and roasts his food into an external
configuration, colour, and substance, as different from its original
condition as the mummy of Cheops differs from the Cheops who watched, with
an imperial dilatation of his brow, the aspiring immortality of the
pyramids. Both, in acting so differently, are the slaves and the types of
the circumstances of their position. The functions in the frames of both
are the same; but these functions curiously follow the discipline of the
social situation which directs and regulates their development. The
economy of the kitchen is only a counterpart, in its simplicity or
complication, its rudeness or luxury, of the economy of the state. The
subjects of patriarchs and despots may eat uncooked horses with relish and
nourishment. The denizens of a political system whose every motion is
regulated by an intricate machinery, in which the teeth of all the myriad
wheels in motion are indented with inextricable multiplicity of confusion
into each other, perish under any nurture which is not as intricate,
complex, artificial, and confused. What a noble and comprehensive science
is this Gastronomy!
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