Several years ago, just before the Palmerstonian policy had involved all
Asia, from Scinde to Syria, in war and anarchy, a young Englishman of
family and fortune, named Sidney, remained at Cairo in spring after all
his countrymen had departed for Alexandria in order to avoid the
Khamseen winds. The month of April was well advanced in all its heat;
and it disputes with May the opprobrium of being the most detestable
month of the year from Rosetta to Dongola. The society of Misr the
Kaherah (victorious) offered no resources beyond the shabby
coffee-houses and the apparitions of Indian travellers. But at that time
only a few Griffins and Nabobs were occasionally seen. There was nothing
to resemble the hordes which now pass through Cairo in their bi-monthly
emigrations, like flights of locusts devouring every thing that comes in
their way, from the bread on the _table-d’hôte_ at the _Hotel d’Orient_
to the oranges and melons piled up like ammunition at the sides of the
streets. Now, indeed, it may truly be said of these locusts, as it was
of the plague of old. “Very grievous are they. Before them there were no
such locusts as they; neither after them shall be such.”
Mr Sidney, in order to escape from the habitual desolation of the
Esbekieh, and avoid witnessing the fearful voracity of his countrymen,
passed a good deal of his time in a coffee-house in the Mouski. His
apology to himself for this idle and unprofitable life was his wish to
improve his knowledge of colloquial Arabic. His studies in Arabic
literature had been pursued with some industry and profit during the
winter, under the guidance of Sheikh Ismael el Feel or the Elephant, so
called from his rotundity of carcass and protuberance of proboscis. The
love of French brandy displayed by this learned Theban had induced the
European consuls to regard him as an oracle of Mohammedan law, and a
striking proof of the progress of civilisation in the East. The Elephant
repaid their esteem by unbounded affection for their purses and an
immeasurable contempt for their persons. Sidney, however, had lost the
friendship of the literary Elephant; for the learned Sheik, supposing
that he was about to quit Cairo with the rest of his countrymen, had
thought fit to absent himself, taking away as a keepsake a splendid new
oriental dress just sent home from the tailor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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