At breakfast next morning, it was accordingly determined to quit Cairo
in three days. The literary man considered that it was his duty to
employ that time in writing a description of Cairo and the Pyramids on
the spot. The party, however, did not succeed in completing their
arrangements in less than a week. Mr Ringlady procured the most
celebrated Dragoman remaining at Cairo, by paying him enormous wages,
and giving him full power to lay in what provisions and take what
measures he considered necessary for crossing the desert with comfort.
The Dragoman hired was named Mohammed; and he commenced by purchasing
double the quantity of stores required and sending half to his own
house, as he said his new master looked like a man who would change his
mind, and it would be satisfactory, should he return suddenly to Cairo,
to find every thing ready for proceeding up the Nile. Mr Campbell and Mr
Lascelles Hamilton arranged to hire a servant together, as far as
Jerusalem. Sidney was attended by an Arab from Guzzerat, who had been
with him for some time, and who, from being a subject of the East India
Company, or an Englishman, was in less danger of suffering any
inconvenience than a native from the part he was going to take in Aali’s
enterprise. He was as black as a coal, but he spoke of Abyssinians,
Nubians, and others, a shade lighter than himself, as “them d--n black
fellows.”
It was necessary to make a written contract with the sheikh of the
camels for a journey from Cairo to Gaza, and this document required to
be prepared at the English consulate. The scene at signing the document
was a singular one. After much wrangling, during which the officials of
the consulate stoutly defended the cause of the camel-drivers, who
brought forward, one after another, nearly a dozen new pretensions, as
pretexts for additional extortion, though the terms had been already
arranged, the patience of Sidney and the exertions of Achmet el Khindee
brought the negotiation to an end, and the treaty was signed. Then the
chancellor of the English consulate stepped forward, and, rubbing his
hands with great glee, exclaimed, “Now, gentlemen, you have concluded
your bargain; let us hear what backshish you are going to give the
sheikh?” As this question appeared to imply too close a sympathy between
the feelings of the chancellory and the amount of the backshish, Mr
Sidney quietly observed, that as he supposed the amount did not require
to be registered in the archives of the British consulate, it could be
settled at Gaza. Scenes of this kind are constantly repeated at all the
trading consulates of the Levant; yet it is prudent for travellers not
to enter into the desert, nor even to ascend the Nile, without a written
contract at the consular office. Even should they pay something more
than they might otherwise do, the surplus serves as an insurance against
native fraud and open robbery, as the people recommended by the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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