Blanco y Colorado: Old Days among the Gauchos of UruguayTetley, William C.
History
Blanco y Colorado: Old Days among the Gauchos of Uruguay
Tetley, William C.
Uruguay -- Description and travel; Uruguay -- Social life and customs
It was a roomy, comfortable house, with two wide
verandahs, facing north and west. The garden was just entering upon its
spring beauty, and would soon be a blaze of colour. The mimosa trees
were just coming into flower, as also the paradise trees, with their
purple blossom. That of the wistaria was already out, hanging in
profusion all along the verandah, while a little further away was a
long low hedge, thickly covered with "plumbago," and here and there a
pomegranate. There were several kinds of palms and flowering cacti, and
on the house itself was a magnificent magnolia, already covered with
buds. The rose trees were an especial care, and some were even now
beginning to flower. Moreover, there was provision for ample watering
during hot weather. Breakfast was served at 11.30 in the wide verandah.
Early in the afternoon my host took me into the town. I went first to
the shipping office, and was afterwards to meet him at the "Strangers'
Club," where he kindly said he would introduce me. I found the
S.S. "Dido" to be a steamer of moderate size, bound for
Antwerp, calling at Rio de Janeiro and Lisbon, and also at Southampton,
to land her English passengers. She did not carry many, but hearing she
was well-found, and reputed to be a good sea-boat, and finding a
comfortable cabin was at disposal, I at once decided to take my passage
in her. So the whole matter was easily settled. I found the "Club" very
comfortable and well-arranged. Those who knew Buenos Aires at the time
of which I write would indeed wonder at the beautiful city they would
find to-day. The streets were then rough and ill-paved. The drainage was
scanty and bad, and when it rained heavily the water poured like a
torrent down the principal streets. But even then there were beautiful
shops, and well-appointed carriages, with silver-mounted harness, so
beloved of Spaniards, were quite a distinctive feature, and a great
contrast to the rough and, uneven roads over which they were compelled
to travel. The great net-work of railways which now traverses the
republic was then a thing undreamed of, for the Buenos Aires Great
Southern Railway, first among its fellows, then extended but a short
way into the open country. Beyond it the wide "Pampas," the home of the
roving Indian, with troops of wild mares, together with deer and
ostrich, rolled into distance like waves of the sea, stretching one upon
another far away into the great unknown. My visit proved agreeable, and
I felt sorry when it came to an end. However, on Saturday, I was
informed that the S.S. "Dido" had to pick up a late consignment
of cargo at Monte Video, and would not leave Buenos Aires until late on
Monday afternoon. Further, that the tug which was to take passengers on
board, would leave the landing stage punctually at three o'clock, on
October 11th. Mr. Treherne went with me to the place of embarkation, and
we were both ready waiting there nearly half an hour before the
appointed time.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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