Transcriber’s Notes A few words in relation to era/dialect have been retained e.g. tho, possest, stopt, dropt, slipt, distrest. The frontispiece spelling of the Queen of Belgium is Elisabeth, as shown in the photo with her signature. Throughout the main text however, it has been spelt Queen Elizabeth. These spellings have been left as printed. In the Appendix, where there are two or more illustrations per page, the words (Top), (Middle), (Bottom) have been used, to indicate the link with the text and illustration. p.292: changed 4 to _d_ Printer errors have silently been corrected. BOBBINS OF BELGIUM [Illustration: H.M. QUEEN ELISABETH OF BELGIUM] BOBBINS OF BELGIUM A BOOK OF BELGIAN LACE, LACE-WORKERS, LACE-SCHOOLS AND LACE-VILLAGES BY CHARLOTTE KELLOGG _Of the Commission for Relief in Belgium, and Author of “Women of Belgium”_ FUNK & WAGNALLS COMPANY NEW YORK AND LONDON 1920 COPYRIGHT, 1920, BY FUNK & WAGNALLS COMPANY [Printed in the United States of America] Published in February, 1920 Copyright Under the Articles of the Copyright Convention of the Pan-American Republics and the United States, August 11, 1910. DEDICATION To the women of the Brussels war-time lace committee—Madame Allard, the Vicomtesse de Beughem, Madame Kefer-Mali, and the Comtesse Elizabeth d’Oultremont, with admiration and gratitude. CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE Preface 15 Introduction 25 I. Turnhout 49 II. Courtrai 79 III. Thourout-Thielt-Wynghene 97 IV. Grammont 127 V. Bruges 143 VI. Kerxken 169 VII. Erembodeghem 189 VIII. Opbrakel 201 IX. Liedekerke 215 X. Herzele 231 XI. Ghent 247 XII. Zele 265 XIII. Appendix 275 Index 307 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FACING PAGE H.M. QUEEN ELIZABETH OF BELGIUM, _Frontispiece_ FIFTEENTH CENTURY PORTRAIT 32 Showing heavy brocade as yet unrelieved by linen or lace trimming. PORTRAIT OF CHARLES IX (1570) 33 Linen collar showing picot edge made with the needle. PORTRAIT TOWARDS END OF SIXTEENTH CENTURY 40 Showing collar ornamented with bobbin-made cluny. ANNE OF AUSTRIA BY VAN DYCK 41 About 1635, cluny lace made with bobbins.