Bobbins of Belgium: A book of Belgian lace, lace-workers, lace-schools and lace-villagesKellogg, Charlotte
History
Bobbins of Belgium: A book of Belgian lace, lace-workers, lace-schools and lace-villages
Kellogg, Charlotte
Brussels lace committee; Lace and lace making -- Belgium
In this little book I make no attempt to present a history of lace,
or a detailed analysis of its processes. I have wished merely to set
down in simple form a few of my observations in the lace districts of
Belgium, as the war has left her. To follow them one does not need
even an elementary knowledge of the important lace forms, tho that is
easily acquired. For there are but two large groups; the needle-lace
group, and the bobbin-lace group, between which we learn quickly to
distinguish. We can not prove the time of their respective origins; as
we know them, they seem to have existed side by side, as they do in the
Belgium of to-day. Sometimes one was more popular, sometimes the other.
To place a piece of lace, we have first but to ask the question, “Was
it made with a needle, and by looping and twisting and weaving a single
thread; or was it made by braiding and twisting and weaving several
threads, by means of bobbins and a round or a square cushion?”
In general, there is but one technique for all needle laces, tho
there is no limit to the variety of stitches the needle worker may
employ. I have seen a scarf, made during the war for Queen Elizabeth,
in which there were many hundred different points. One comes soon to
recognize the important needle laces; the exquisite French Alençons and
Argentins of earlier days, with their meshes made with a buttonhole
loop, and their flowers stiffened with horsehair; the various
Venetian points,—Venise, Burano, and Rose point; and the extremely
popular Brussels point, with its gauze mesh and raised flowers. It is
characteristic of these needle laces, that the flowers are thrown into
relief, sometimes high, sometimes scarcely perceptible.
Bobbin laces may be made with a dozen or with one hundred times as many
threads, according to the design and width of the lace. They fall into
two sub-groups, the first including laces made with uncut threads,
in a single piece; the second, those made detail by detail, in which
the threads are cut as each is finished, the completed lace piece
being made by joining these separate parts. This second method was not
introduced until the latter half of the 17th century.
In the first group, made with uncut threads, are the early Clunys and
the common Torchons, Old Flanders, the beautiful Valenciennes, Point
de Paris, Point de Lille, Malines and Binche, with their delicate
round, or square or hexagonal meshes, from which the pattern blossoms.
Their flowers are flat, never lifted in relief, tho a heavy outlining
thread often sets them off brilliantly from the surrounding field.
The second bobbin group, in which the final lace piece is composed of
united details, includes black and white Chantilly, Blonde, popular
with Spanish peoples, Brussels Duchesse and Bruges Duchesse, most
frequently displayed in our American shops, and the finer Rosaline,
which was in great demand when the war broke out. This group of bobbin
laces admits a kind of relief.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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