Bobbins of Belgium: A book of Belgian lace, lace-workers, lace-schools and lace-villages — John Shaqi
Bobbins of Belgium: A book of Belgian lace, lace-workers, lace-schools and lace-villagesKellogg, Charlotte
History
Bobbins of Belgium: A book of Belgian lace, lace-workers, lace-schools and lace-villages
Kellogg, Charlotte
Brussels lace committee; Lace and lace making -- Belgium
Tho there are lace sections in widely scattered parts of Belgium, none
(except Turnhout) is so important as those of the two Flanders. Western
and Eastern Flanders form an almost continuous and unrivalled lace
region, which breaks up irregularly into districts, each celebrated
for a particular kind, or for several kinds of lace. However, it would
be impossible to draw an accurate map illustrating the Belgian lace
situation, either from the point of view of the varieties made and
their quality, or of the workers. It seems, indeed, at times that lace
was invented to defeat the statistician, for he no sooner reaches a
conclusion than it proves inexact; a factory rises near a certain river
and the lace women desert their cushions to accept its better wages;
in a village long devoted to Needle Point, young girls discover that
the bobbin-made Clunys pay better, or they marry and make no lace at
all until their children are partly grown; poor crops and resulting
misery may send others who have not for some time been listed as
workers back to their cushions. For, since despite the many schools and
work-rooms, the great majority of women still work at home, lace-making
is peculiarly sensitive to every change in family and community life.
We may say, however, that despite constantly shifting conditions,
Western Flanders forms a great bobbin-lace area, unquestionably the
most important in the world to-day, while Eastern Flanders has been for
centuries and still is, famous for its needle points.
Unfortunately, too, because of the miserable lace-wage (in Belgium,
before the war, it averaged about a franc a day) this industry has
been regarded always as a supplementary occupation, on which the
family could not rely for its main support, and which was not capable
of organization and amelioration as other industries are. The slavery
conditions have undoubtedly been due chiefly to lack of good schools
and constructive lace training, and to the system by which a _facteur_,
or first buyer, collects the laces, to re-sell them to a _fabricant_,
or dealer, who in turn may sell them to a larger fabricant—a system
permitting any number of intermediaries—and also to the fact that the
women, scattered as they are throughout the agricultural regions, have
never protected themselves by forming syndicates. The first step toward
emancipation has been taken; the new teaching is under way. The fatal
system of the many intermediaries remains to be dealt with—to be swept
away. And it is hoped that feeling the new power education will give
them, the dentellières will at last find ways either through unions or
by other means, of protecting themselves.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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