Bobbins of Belgium: A book of Belgian lace, lace-workers, lace-schools and lace-villagesKellogg, Charlotte
History
Bobbins of Belgium: A book of Belgian lace, lace-workers, lace-schools and lace-villages
Kellogg, Charlotte
Brussels lace committee; Lace and lace making -- Belgium
I began my visit in a little room at the right of the entrance hall,
where six older girls were still at work, tho the 500 other pupils had
gone for their lunch. Dozens of rubbed carbon copies of lace patterns
were pinned to the walls along with executed samples of the lace they
represented. This was a _piqué_ class-room; the young women seated at
high, narrow tables, were carefully at work on pieces of glossy green
cardboard on which the lace design had been drawn and which they were
pricking with pins, or covering with tiny holes, that indicate the
position of the pins that must hold the thread as it is twisted or
looped or braided, by the worker. The cardboard piqué is in a sense
both the beginning and the end of the lace course; the beginning, since
no pupil can start his lace without the piqué, or interpreted pattern,
and the end, since it is the most difficult of all the processes in the
technique of the lace. The _piqueuse_ must understand the design and
its practical execution, must interpret the picture to the worker in
terms of pin-pricks marking the progress of her thread. A good piqueuse
knows immediately, on looking at a drawing, whether it is a true lace
design, or must be adapted, and also in which kind of lace it can be
best exprest. As she shifts a pin-prick less than a hair’s width to
the left or to the right she varies appreciably the resulting mesh
or flower. She has considerable liberty in deciding which particular
stitches will be most effective to fill in the jours, or open-work
spaces indicated in the pattern.
One of the great evils of the past has been the absence of
training-schools, and the consequent lack of piqueuses; in each
generation there have been but a few good ones, who have, in a sense,
held the lace industry in their hands. Before the war, Ypres had two
famous piqueuses, to whom patterns were sent from an entire region;
and in the town of Turnhout to-day, with its thousands of workers, tho
there are several less experienced piqueuses, there is but one woman
to whom the finest and most complicated drawings can be entrusted for
interpretation. She is the only person, for example, who could make
the piqué for the beautiful scarf, which I saw later being executed
in the Point de Paris room—for that she received 90 francs. It is a
common saying that one must be born a piqueuse to succeed; at least it
remains true that in addition to her capacity for an intricate and most
meticulous labor, the piqueuse should possess a high sensitiveness to
art values.
The little room in the Abbé Berraly’s school is one expression of the
Lace Committee’s conviction that the emancipation of the industry and
of the lace-maker will come only through education.
[Illustration: ABBÉ BERRALY SCHOOL, TURNHOUT
General view]
[Illustration: NINE-YEAR-OLD CHILDREN MAKING POINT DE PARIS]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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