Bobbins of Belgium: A book of Belgian lace, lace-workers, lace-schools and lace-villagesKellogg, Charlotte
History
Bobbins of Belgium: A book of Belgian lace, lace-workers, lace-schools and lace-villages
Kellogg, Charlotte
Brussels lace committee; Lace and lace making -- Belgium
To the south and east of the badly shelled town of Thourout, I visited
the districts of Iseghem, Thielt and Wynghene, all celebrated for their
guipures. Guipure, a rather vague commercial term covering two widely
different groups of lace, may be loosely defined as bobbin lace without
a mesh base. One group of guipures includes the Clunys (named after
the Cluny museum in Paris because they employ many old Gothic designs)
which are made in one length or piece. They closely resemble the more
common Torchons, surpassing them, however, in fineness and firmness of
execution, and in brilliancy of design—the distinguishing connecting
bars of Cluny often throw the figures into conspicuous relief. While
this one-piece lace is usually made of the coarser threads, fine linen
or cotton, or even silk thread, is also employed. In the second group
of guipures are those made in separate small bits, or details, which
are afterward joined to make the flounce or piece, the most common of
these varieties being Flanders and Duchesse. In the schools of Thielt
and Wynghene all the kinds are taught. Because they are made of coarser
thread and therefore more quickly than such laces as Valenciennes or
Needle Point, are less taxing to the eyes, and pay better, these
guipures have gained ground in almost every lace center in Belgium, and
often threaten the very existence of the finer laces. If it had not
been for the leadership of the “Amies de la Dentelle,” of a few of the
more intelligent and disinterested dealers, and above all of certain
convents to whom Belgium owes the preservation of many of her finest
designs and varieties, it is a question if any but the few remaining
old women, who for forty or fifty years have preferred to follow one
pattern, would still produce the old meshes and points. Much hope now
centers in the corrective influence of the recently founded Normal
School at Bruges and of the other schools of Belgium, but, despite all
the efforts of these combined groups, delicate laces like the Malines
have been fast disappearing.
The little farmhouse, if one can call two rooms a house, I visited
on the edge of Thielt demonstrated clearly what is happening. It
was Saturday afternoon and the mother of the large family of boys at
play on the neat brick path outside, was scrubbing the tiled floor,
moving the small baskets of potatoes and heaps of tobacco leaves and
sabots and the winter sled from place to place as she proceeded. The
socks to be darned, each already a fantastic patchwork, were piled
on the window-sill, where there was room beside for a geranium and a
fern. The stove and the table were also crowded into this, the general
living-room, which despite all attempts to arrange things, boasted
scarcely one unincumbered foot of floor space. However, over near the
window with its two plants, were the customary chair and the cushion,
and the girl of sixteen, absorbed in her lace, quite oblivious of the
water her mother was splashing about her feet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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