Bobbins of Belgium: A book of Belgian lace, lace-workers, lace-schools and lace-villagesKellogg, Charlotte
History
Bobbins of Belgium: A book of Belgian lace, lace-workers, lace-schools and lace-villages
Kellogg, Charlotte
Brussels lace committee; Lace and lace making -- Belgium
After lunch I started with Madame Cuseners to the little lace school
whose director has courageously carried on during the four years. We
walked through a narrow arched passageway beside a brick building
and into a large hall at the rear which was at one time the lace
class-room. Instead of lace-workers, however, we found Scotch and
Canadian soldiers busy tacking the Union Jack and Belgian flags on
the wall, and hanging boughs and festoons of colored paper rings—they
were making ready for a “grand” New Year’s Eve dancing party. In
the courtyard still farther back a half-dozen Scotchmen had built a
campfire, protecting it with a low canvas roof, and it was burning
brightly despite the dismal rain.
It shone on the windows of the long, narrow room at the side of the
court, which looked like a conservatory, but which had become the
refuge of the lace-workers, when because of lack of thread and fuel,
they could no longer occupy their hall. I found fifty sweet-faced girls
between thirteen and fifteen busy over their cushions, a faithful,
tired-looking old Abbé and an enthusiastic young woman teacher. They
were not making black nor the less important white silk Chantilly, for
they had long been entirely without silk thread. Nevertheless, they
were preserving the art of making it, since they had been kept at work
on Chantilly designs executed with bobbins and the white cotton thread
furnished by the Committee. They had some fine flounces, which were
not, however, to be compared with the traditional black silk ones of
the great Chantilly days.
For Chantilly has seen great days. It appeared first in France
about 1740, where it achieved a phenomenal popularity, which was
unfortunately rudely ended by the Revolution, for since it was a
favorite lace at court, the Revolutionists made it a crime to appear
in Chantilly. Later, under the Empire, it enjoyed a revival, the
fabrication of the silk laces spread in France; Bayeux became a
celebrated center; and, finally, toward 1835, it crossed to Belgium,
where Grammont was early recognized as its home. In 1851 all of the
forty-nine schools of that province taught the technique of this
lace. Then toward 1870 true Chantilly seemed doomed a second time
to extinction by the success of the machine imitations of St. Pierre
des Calais, and also because the vogue for black lace had passed. But
again the pendulum has swung back; the imitations are now greatly in
favor and there is a cheering increase in the demand for the true lace
flounces.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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