On Saturday an enormous beefsteak pudding delightfully fortified with
larks, oysters, mushrooms, and other seasoning, was served. This monster
of the pudding tribe was put down to boil at one o’clock in the morning,
and was served with great ceremony at one o’clock on the afternoon of the
same day. Moore, the proprietor, cut the savoury mountain up. Every
seat was taken a quarter of an hour before the dish made its appearance,
and late-comers had to turn disconsolate away. On one fateful morning—a
cold, foggy day in mid-winter—the usual congregation of
pudding-worshippers had gathered together, hungry, expectant, keen-set.
At the stroke of one the step of William was heard on the stair, and a
pungent steam was wafted to the waiting gourmets. Then all at once was
heard a slip, a groan, and, last of all, an awful crash. William, with
the pudding in his arms, had slipped on the top of the flight of stairs
leading to the hall, and the place was flooded with broken pudding-bowl
and dismembered pudding, now mixing itself ineffectually with the sawdust
of the floor. Mingled sighs and oaths arose on all sides. The mischief
was, alas! irreparable.
After this, William was pensioned off by Moore, but the devoted old man
could not be induced to quit the scene in which most of his life had been
passed. He was not permitted to resume his official position as a
waiter, but he turned up every morning at his usual time, and remained on
the premises until closing-time. They were puzzled at first what to do
with him. At last it was resolved to put him into a leather apron, and
let him pretend to be having a very busy time in the cellar. From that
cool and cobwebby grot he made frequent emergences during meal-times to
indulge the one pleasure left him—that of a little familiar talk with an
old customer. One day William was missed and his old customers knew
instinctively that he was dead. The old fellow left considerable
personality and some real estate.
I have now tried to sketch, however indifferently, some of the centres
round which the Fleet Street maelstrom roared. Ceaselessly for more than
twenty years I whirled round and round in its irresistible eddies. One
never hoped, one never wished, for deliverance from the seething circle.
Once caught up in it, the daily round was discovered to possess a
fascination overwhelming, imperious, inexorable. It was a career the
most strenuous, at once, and the most irresponsible. There was a sense
of freedom, yet one was a slave of the lamp; a feeling of power, yet one
was the mere mouthpiece of an organ. By the outsider one was alternately
hated and courted, and one went one’s way.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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