"Of course we know that, but what do you consider the very best?" "There is no one the 'very best'. I could give you two." "Let it be two, then," was our immediate rejoinder, and here is what he gave us as the best recipes of the Gianduja. First, let us give you an idea of the difficulty under which we secured these recipes by printing them just as he wrote them down for us, and then we shall elaborate a little and show the result of skillful questioning. This is the way he wrote the recipe for Risotto Milanaise: Risotto ala Milanaise "Onions chop fine--marrow and little butter--rice--saffron--chicken broth--wen cook add fresh butter and Parmesan cheese seasoned." What was embodied in the words "wen cook" was the essential of the recipe and here is the way we got it: Chop one large onion fine. Cut a beef marrow into small dice and stir it with the chopped onion. Put a small piece of butter in a frying pan and into this put the onion and marrow and fry to a delicate brown. Now add one scant cup of rice, stirring constantly, and into this put a pinch of saffron that has been bruised. When the rice takes on a brown color add, slowly, chicken broth as needed, until the rice is thoroughly cooked. Then add a lump of fresh butter about the size of a walnut, and sprinkle liberally with grated Parmesan cheese, seasoning to taste with pepper and salt. This is to be served with chicken or veal. The second recipe was for Fritto Misto, and he wrote it as follows: Fritto Misto "Lamb chops and brains breaded--sweetbreads--escallop of veal--fresh mushrooms--Italian squash when in season--asparagus or cauliflower--fried in fresh butter--dipped in beaten eggs--lime jus." "Fritto Misto" means fried mixture, and the recipe as we finally elucidated it is as follows: Take a lamb chop, a piece of calf brain, one sweetbread, a slice of veal, a fresh mushroom, sliced Italian squash, a piece of asparagus or of cauliflower and dip these into a batter made of an egg well beaten with a little flour. Sprinkle these with a little lime juice and fry to a delicate brown in butter, adding salt and pepper to taste.