Bonnie Scotland and what we owe herGriffis, William Elliot
History
Bonnie Scotland and what we owe her
Griffis, William Elliot
Scotland; Scotland -- Description and travel
Exquisite are the islands--about thirty in number and lying chiefly in
the southern part--that dot the surface, such as Inch Cailliach, the
Isle of Women, or Place of the Nuns; Inch Tarranach, or Monk’s Isle;
Inch Fad, or Long Island; Inch Cruin, or Round Island. One of the
largest of these is a nobleman’s deer park. Inch Loanig, or Yew Isle,
where Robert the Bruce planted yew trees for his bowmen, and where the
wood of the fiery cross was grown, and others that have associated
with their names ancient romance or modern utility, possess a double
charm. Geologically, the loch is the remnant of an (amputated) arm of
the sea, and usually but a few feet above the level of the great deep.
One of the dales near Loch Lomond, at whose entrance are the ruins
of an old castle, is Glen Fruin, the Glen of Sorrow. Here a terrible
battle was fought between the Macgregors and the partisans of the Laird
of Luss, the head of the family of Colquhon, in which the Macgregors
were victorious and the Colquhons almost annihilated. There is also a
Holy Pool of St. Fillan known, where incantations used to be made to
secure the influence of the saint for the recovery of insane persons.
It seems a literary outrage not to read, as a preparation, Scott’s
“Lady of the Lake,” before going through the Trossachs, or riding over
the ridge from Loch Lomond to Loch Katrine. This romantic defile, whose
Gaelic name means the “Bristled Country,” in allusion to its shaggy
physical features, is very narrow and beautifully wooded. Properly
speaking, the Trossachs extend from Loch Achray to Loch Katrine. They
are continued thence, by a strip on the northeastern shore to a point
above the now submerged Silver Strand, opposite to Ellen’s Isle, a
distance of less than three miles.
A stage-coach was waiting for us at Inversnaid, and we were so
fortunate as to get a seat in front on the top near the driver, who was
very intelligent, and showed us among other places the woods in which
Roderick Dhu’s men are supposed to have retired for their coronach, or
wailing over the loss of their great leader. On one side are the steep
green slopes of Ben Venue to the southwest, while on the northeast are
the precipitous crags of Ben A’an. Wood, water, rock, and hill make a
harmonious blending of lovely scenery. It was Sir Walter, the “Wizard
of the North,” who made this ravine the Mecca of tourists. In his day
there was no easy entrance or exit. The only access to the lake was by
means of a ladder, formed out of the branches of trees and roots.
Scott’s lines tell that
“No pathway meets the wanderer’s view,
Unless he climb with footing nice
A far projecting precipice.
The broom’s tough roots his ladder made,
The hazel saplings lent their aid.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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