Bonnie Scotland and what we owe herGriffis, William Elliot
History
Bonnie Scotland and what we owe her
Griffis, William Elliot
Scotland; Scotland -- Description and travel
In a word, the Trossachs remind one of that wonderful geological fault
in the Helderbergs, in New York State, named “Indian Ladder,” this term
recalling the old method of entrance. One of the finest passes and
glens in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, as well as the canyons
of the West, now so well known and enjoyed, was shut up at one time by
Nature in like manner.
Some of the romance of the Trossachs neighborhood has been spoiled,
as has the scenery of the Catskill region, by the necessity of a
neighboring great city’s practice of the virtue which is next to
godliness. The vicinity of that ever-thirsty conglomeration of
humanity, that needs refreshment, cleansing, and mill-power, has
modified the scenery. The Glasgow Water Company had to raise the banks
of the lake several feet, to form a reservoir for the supply of the
mills on the Teith River. Among the sites thus desecrated were the
silver shore, where stood Ellen, “guardian naiad of the strand,” before
the royal Knight of Snowdon, and the spot where Roderick Dhu challenged
Fitz-James to single combat. Coilantogle Ford long invited the
fisherman to try his luck and the tourist to survey the ruins near by.
Then there is the Loch Vennachar, with its lovely island of Inch Vroin,
which breaks its mirror-like surface. On the hillside overlooking the
loch is a hollow on the left of the road called “Lanrick Mead,” a flat
meadow which was the gathering-ground of the Clan Alpine. A mile beyond
Loch Menoca, as the road slopes toward the Brig of Turk, we have a
varied and extensive prospect, including Ben Venue.
[Illustration: THE TROSSACHS AND LOCH ACHRAY]
A sudden bend in the road winding around the margin of Loch Achrae
discloses the spur of the mountain forming the entrance to the
Trossachs. Slight wonder that this, one of the finest views to
be met with on the way, was selected by the artist Turner for his
illustration of “The Lady of the Lake.” He visited Scotland for his
book on “Provincial Antiquities,” for which Scott furnished the
letter-press.
Entering this wonderful defile of the Trossachs there is revealed a
scene of
“Crags, knolls, and mounds, confusedly hurled,
The fragments of an earlier world.”
Somewhere near the entrance of the gorge, Fitz James lost his “gallant
gray” horse. Perhaps, even without a silver suggestion, our guide might
show the exact spot where the poor creature’s bleaching bones once lay!
The rocks are verdure-clad and we catch a glimpse of Ben A’an rising
above the wooded precipices on the north.
Suddenly emerging from the wild mountain rocks and woods, we behold, as
Fitz James did,--
“One burnish’d sheet of living gold,
Loch-Katrine lay beneath him rolled;
In all her length far winding lay,
With promontory, creek, and bay,
And islands that, empurpled bright,
Floated amid the livelier light;
And mountains, that like giants stand,
To sentinel enchanted land.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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