Bonnie Scotland and what we owe herGriffis, William Elliot
History
Bonnie Scotland and what we owe her
Griffis, William Elliot
Scotland; Scotland -- Description and travel
The tartan, though Scottish in its development, was hardly an original
invention. The word comes from the Spanish and French “tire taine,”
meaning in the former language something thin and flimsy, from “tire
tar,” to tremble, or shiver, with the cold. In French, the term
“tire taine” refers to the mingled fibres of linen and wool, or
linsey-woolsey. Probably no word is known in either Gaelic or English,
before the fifteenth century, describing the finer sort of tartans.
After this date, the vocabulary is rich and the industry greatly
developed. It is certain that the Highlanders by the eighteenth century
possessed these peculiar textiles and their patterns which were varied
to a wonderful degree, so that each clan had its own special tartan,
by which it was distinguished. The Scots made the tartan the fit
substitute for a heraldry that expresses itself in the “arms” and in
a system of symbolical decoration copied from plants, animals, or the
implements of war or industry. It is probable that European heraldry
arose out of the crusades, which gave also to Scottish blazonry a
tremendous impetus.
When, however, the modern world at large, attracted by the beauty and
solid value of the Scotch tartans, used these as articles of dress for
their own personal decoration, or for purely commercial advantage, then
the heraldry of the tartan suffered confusion and decay. Manufacturers,
for the sake of the money to be gained in the new enterprise, began to
design new and purely imaginary tartans. This proceeding gave rise to
the jests and ribaldry of the shallow skeptics, who throw doubt upon
the reality of these distinctive patterns as ever having been, as at
one time they undoubtedly were, distinctive as the particular badges of
particular clans. The truth lies midway between the enthusiast and the
doubter.
In political history, when conquest, subjection, or subordination of
all to the supreme government must be secured, it seems necessary,
at times, to suppress or abolish certain outward symbols or forms of
dress which ally the thoughts and feelings of those subordinated to the
insurgent past. It seems best to ban these, at least until the time
when, order and uniformity having been secured, the resumption of the
old liberty of dress, which has no longer any political significance,
may be harmless. In the old Scot’s land we have heard about “the
wearing of the green”--long proscribed, then allowed.
The Highlander’s costume has to-day no political significance, though
it was once the badge of the insurgent, and later for a time under
ban. After Culloden, in 1745, the British Parliament passed laws by
which the Scottish hill people were deprived of their weapons. Then,
also, the Highland dress was prohibited under severe penalties. Happily
however, that ban was lifted in good season.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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