Bonnie Scotland: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope MoncrieffMoncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
History
Bonnie Scotland: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope Moncrieff
Moncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
Scotland -- Description and travel
The dawn broadens, the mists roll away to show a northward-bound
traveller how his train is speeding between slopes of moorland, green
and grey, here patched by bracken or bog, there dotted by wind-blown
trees, everywhere cut by water-courses gathering into gentle rivers that
can be furious enough in spate, when they hurl a drowned sheep or a
broken hurdle through those valleys opening a glimpse of mansions and
villages among sheltered woods. Are we still in England, or in what at
least as far back as Cromwell’s time called itself “Bonnie Scotland”? It
is as hard to be sure as to make out whether that cloudy knoll on the
horizon is crowned by a peat-stack or by the stump of a Border peel.
Either bank of Tweed and Liddel has much the same aspects. An expert
might perhaps read the look or the size of the fields. Could one get
speech with that brawny corduroyed lad tramping along the furrows to his
early job, whistling maybe, as if it would never grow old, an air from
the London music-halls, the Southron might be none the wiser as to his
nationality, though a fine local ear would not fail to catch some
difference of burr and broad vowels, marked off rather by separating
ridges than by any legal frontier, as the lilting twang of Liddesdale
from the Teviot drawl. Healthily barefooted children, more’s the pity,
are not so often seen nowadays on this side of the Border, nor on the
other, unless at Brightons and Margates. The Scotch “bonnet,”
substantial headgear as it was, has vanished; the Scotch plaid, once as
familiar on the Coquet as on the Tweed, is more displayed in shop
windows than in moorland glens, now that over the United Kingdom reigns
a dull monotony and uniformity of garb. Could we take the spectrum of
those first wreaths of smoke curling from cottage chimneys, we might
find traces of peat and porridge, yet also of coal and bacon. Yon
red-locked lassie turning her open eyes up to the train from the
roadside might settle the question, were we able to test her knowledge
whether of the Shorter Catechism or of her “Duty towards her Neighbour.”
It is only when the name of the first Scottish way-station whisks by,
that we know ourselves fairly over the edge of “Caledonia stern and
wild”; and our first thought may well be that this Borderland appears
less stern than the grey crags of Yorkshire, and less wild than some
bleak uplands of Northumberland.
What makes a nation? Not for long such walls as the Romans drew across
this neck of our island, one day to point a moral of fallen might, and
to adorn a tale of the northern romancer who by its ruins wooed his
alien bride. Not such rivers as here could be easily forded by those
mugwump moss-troopers that sat on the fence of Border law, and--
[Illustration: TANTALLON CASTLE, ON COAST OF HADDINGTONSHIRE]
Sought the beeves to make them broth
In England and in Scotland both.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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