Bonnie Scotland: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope MoncrieffMoncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
History
Bonnie Scotland: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope Moncrieff
Moncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
Scotland -- Description and travel
Legend tells how Roman soldiers gaining a prospect of the Tay from the
heights south of Perth, exclaimed on its North Inch as another Campus
Martius; but later visitors have not always shared the local admiration.
One modern Italian traveller, Signor Piovanelli, after wandering two or
three hours about the Perth streets, took away an impression of dull
melancholy; but then he began with an unsatisfactory experience at the
Refreshment Room. An else conscientious French tourist explains the
bustle of Perth station as its being the rendezvous of the inhabitants
seeking distraction from their _triste_ life. These be ignorant
calumnies. At least our northern York is a typical Scottish town, well
displaying the strata of its development. In quite recent years it has
been much transmogrified by a new thoroughfare, fittingly named Scott
Street, which, running from near the station right through the city, has
altered its centre of gravity. The old High Street and South Street,
with their “vennels” and “closes,” lead transversely from Scott Street
to the river, cut at the other end by George Street and John Street,
which had supplanted them as main lines of business. “Where are the
shops?” I was once asked by a bewildered party of country excursionists,
wandering unedified about the vicinity of the station. In those days one
had to send them across the city to the streets parallel with the
river; but now Scott Street has attracted the Post Office, the Theatre
and the Free Library, and bids fair to become the Strand or the Regent
Street of the Fair City, fringed by such a display of latter-day villas
as attests the prosperity of its business quarters.
Fragments of mediæval antiquity also must be sought for towards the
river. Off John Street stands the old Cathedral, in the practical
Scottish manner shared into three places of worship, once containing
dozens of altars, among which an impudent schoolboy threw the first
image-breaking stone that spread such a ripple of iconoclasm through the
shrines of Scotland. Close by, on the river bank, the Gaol occupies the
site of Gowrie House, where James VI. had his mysterious or mythical
escape from treason. The Parliament House, too, has vanished, its memory
preserved by the name of a “close,” the Scottish equivalent for alley.
The citizens have lately adopted a traditional “Fair Maid’s” house as
their official lion, to which indicators point the way from all over the
city. This, whatever the higher criticism may say of its claims, has
been well restored as a specimen of a solid burgher’s home in those days
when Simon the Glover was so vexed by the vagaries of his Highland
apprentice and by the roistering suitors of his daughter. Since then,
Perth has not wanted Fair Maids; but in our time the title has sometimes
had a satiric tang as implying what the French stigmatise as _une
rosse_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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