The plucking of tea leaves is a fine art beginning with the starting of
new growth and continuing every few days until growth stops. In certain
regions growth is practically continuous and plucking also, but in most
regions the plant has an obvious resting period, when it is pruned back.
A properly cared for plant may last as long as forty or fifty years. In
a modern tea plantation the only part of the process of tea making that
involves handling is the plucking of the leaves, largely done by women
and children. The leaves are then spread on racks and allowed to partly
wither, after which they are put between rollers so as to crush the
tissue, thereby allowing the more rapid escape of water. After rolling,
all black teas are again spread out when oxidation of their juices
changes their color, but green teas omit this second spreading out and
sometimes even the first. The oxidation of black teas is produced by an
enzyme in the juice, in green tea this process is stopped by subjecting
the leaf at once to steam. This kills the enzyme but preserves the green
color of the leaf. In the black tea the enzyme is allowed to work for
two or three hours when the leaves are again slightly rolled to seal in
the juices and the leaves are then subjected to a current of air
progressively warmer until it reaches a temperature well above boiling
point. Once the temperature reaches about 240 degrees the process goes
on only for about twenty minutes when the leaves are perfectly dry and
crisp. The different sized leaves, buds, twigs, etc., are then sorted by
mechanical sifters and the finished tea is ready for packing. Experts
declare that there is no difference between broken and unbroken leaves,
and if there is any the flavor is probably better from broken leaves.
From the upper three leaves and their bud the finest teas are made, but
from adjoining plantations, even from the same plants at different
seasons or different pluckings, vastly different teas are often
produced. In different regions the process varies slightly in its
details, and different soils and culture undoubtedly affect the flavor
of tea, just as they do other crops. Some of these local conditions are
of great value, and the skillful handling of the leaves is as much of a
fine art as it is a science. Unlike wines, tea is best when fresh and
much of the romance of the sea centers around the China clippers which
made remarkably swift passages between China and England around the Cape
of Good Hope. With the opening of the Suez Canal competition for
increased speed became still more keen, but steam vessels took the
romance out of the trade. Much of the tea used in the United States
comes from Japan and does not go through London, which for over two
hundred years was the tea market of the world.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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