The stalls in the Frari are all placed in the nave west of the transept,
as in Westminster Abbey. They are of very rich Renaissance character,
but with some late Gothic features. In the north transept is some
elaborate Gothic panelling--very German in character--which looks as if
it had come from the back of the old choir stalls. Here, too, is a
crucifix, probably the original rood. Some fragments of stained glass
are still visible; they are coarse and rude in detail, but extremely
fine in colour; and one must picture the church full of rich glass in
order to do justice to the scheme of the mediæval architect.
To the south of the nave are large uninteresting cloisters, and it is
only at the east end that the exterior at all repays the ecclesiologist
for the pains he must take to get all round it. The view which I give
will best illustrate its general character. The windows are all
transomed, the tracery and portions of the arches being executed in
stone, the rest of the wall being entirely of brick or terra-cotta with
some
[Illustration: 24.--STA. MARIA GLORIOSA DEI FRARI. VENICE. Page 180.]
red marble in the eaves-arcading; the bricks are not particularly good,
and the terra-cotta borders, cornices, and ornaments are poor and meagre
in their design. The most observable point about the detail is the great
and ugly splay on the exterior of the windows, and the facts that the
window mouldings are returned round the sills and that all the apsidal
terminations in the church finish with an angle in the centre--a
peculiarity which is very seldom met with, but very much to be commended
as a variety.
There is a degree of clumsiness about the way in which the arches of the
windows are set upon the jambs which is very characteristic of Italian
Gothic; but this, and other points open to criticism, do not prevent the
east end of this church from being a very noble conception, broad and
grand, unbroken with the lines of buttresses which generally too much
confuse apsidal terminations, and yet very vertical in its effect. There
is no petty attempt at relieving or ornamenting plain wall where it
occurs, but it is left in the native rudeness of the rather
rough-looking red brick, which is in no respect better than the bricks
one may get anywhere in England. The cornices are very marked, and those
in the clerestory have the common and ungraceful corbelled arcading in
brick, to which I have a special antipathy. The clerestory windows of
the transepts and choir are, I need hardly say, quite modern, and of a
kind, unfortunately, most popular throughout the north of Italy. North
of the choir is a tall brick campanile, leaning rather dangerously to
the North, finished with an octagonal upper stage, and, though not very
remarkable, making a conspicuous feature in most of the views of this
part of Venice, and at any rate to be admired for its simplicity and the
absence of effort in its design.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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