Brighter Britain! (Volume 2 of 2): or Settler and Maori in Northern New ZealandHay, W. Delisle (William Delisle)
History
Brighter Britain! (Volume 2 of 2): or Settler and Maori in Northern New Zealand
Hay, W. Delisle (William Delisle)
Ethnology -- New Zealand; Māori (New Zealand people); New Zealand -- Description and travel
At Kawa-kawa we are in the Bay of Islands, and consequently within
the classic ground. Indeed, south-east of Kawa-kawa is the site of
the famous pa of Ruapekapeka, which was a strong native fortress,
constructed with a degree of skill, and science almost, that astonished
military engineers.
The Kawa-kawa river gives its name to the district. There is a good
deal of settlement and pioneer-farming round here and in Pakaru
district, but the chief industry of the place is coal-mining. A
hundred to a hundred and fifty colliery hands are employed, forming,
with their families, a good nucleus of population. Manganese and cement
are also mined here.
The seam is twelve and a half feet thick; and the output about three
thousand tons a month. There are some half-dozen miles of railway,
connecting the mine with a suitable shipping-place, near where
the river joins the waters of the bay itself. A fleet of coasters
is constantly employed carrying coal to Grahamstown and Auckland.
Extensive coal-beds exist in many parts of the North, but Whangarei and
Kawa-kawa are the only workings at present. I have seen some carbonized
cocoa-nuts extracted from the Kawa-kawa mine, which prove that the
cocoa-nut palm must once have grown here, though it does not now.
There is nothing particularly classic about a colliery village,
however, although it may be situated in a primeval solitude, and amid
woodland scenery, where axe and spade are busy converting the wilds
into cultivated farms. The river winds down through grand mountainous
tracts, and then we find ourselves on the bosom of the gloriously
beautiful bay, the most picturesque and most romantic of all places in
the North—more, the home of the first chapters of our history.
I will not go so far as to say that the Bay of Islands is as lovely as
Sydney Harbour, nor can I allow that it throws certain choice bits of
scenery in the Kaipara and the Hokianga estuaries entirely into the
shade. But it certainly is a most picturesque place. The views are so
varied, so wholly unique; and the stories connected with every corner
of the bay throw such a romantic halo over the whole, that I feel quite
justified in endorsing the opinion that the Bay of Islands is, and
always must be, the most remarkable place in Northern New Zealand.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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