To the student of armour and arms, this period is of exceptional
interest by reason of the unwonted facility with which it may be
studied, inasmuch as there is hardly a cathedral, or church of any
importance in the kingdom, which does not possess, in some manner,
details of military equipment relating to it. Brasses and monumental
effigies simply abound, stained glass is by no means uncommon, while
carvings in wood and stone exhibit details which are at times of great
importance. The wealth of technical matter thus preserved enables the
student to reconstruct the period with a fidelity which is wanting
in those earlier. It must not be supposed that the great and salient
features of the style were at once adopted; there was a transition
period of nearly twenty years, during which the old defences were in
part retained, and only discarded by degrees. Before pointing out these
exceptions, however, it may be as well to take the several features of
the equipment in order, as has been done in preceding styles.
[Illustration: FIG. 205.--Sir Robert Swynborne, 1391. Little Horkesley
Church, Essex.]
_The Jupon._--The jupon was a sleeveless outer garment reaching
from the neck to midway between the hips and the knees. It was
tight-fitting, as may readily be gleaned by inspection of brasses
and effigies, and no folds or creases can be observed in it. In
construction it consisted of several thicknesses of material sewn
through, thus becoming almost homogeneous, and upon this firm
sub-structure a layer of silk, velvet, or other rich material was
firmly fastened down, and bore in the great majority of cases the
armorial insignia of the wearer. There are exceptional cases in which
the jupon was stuffed and quilted. The arm-holes became decorated in
the later years of this style, but owing to the covering camail we have
no knowledge of any decorations upon the neck. The skirt was finished
with an enriched border of either escallops, or acanthus leaves, or
dags--dagging being a mode of ornamenting the hems of civilian garments
prevailing in the reigns of Edward III., Richard II., and the fourth
and fifth Henrys; it consisted in cutting out borders of sleeves,
skirts, &c., into open work of various devices. This rich and splendid
covering to the real body defences was always laced up at the sides,
occasionally only on one side, under the left arm.
[Illustration: FIG. 206.--Bascinet. St. Peter’s Church, St. Albans.]
[Illustration: FIG. 207.--Bascinet. St. Peter’s Church, St. Albans.]
[Illustration: FIG. 208.--Snout-faced bascinet.]
[Illustration: FIG. 209.--Bascinet. (Tower of London.)]
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