Burgundian Ox-cart 258 In Rural Burgundy 261 Junction of Rivers Doubs and Saône 261 Oxen ploughing Facing 264 Burgundian Cottage 267 Château de Moux 270 Nantua and the Lake 272 Nantua from the Hill 274 Princess Margaret's Tomb 276 Bourg; in the Street 278 Eglise de Brou: Ste. Madeleine from the Tomb of Marguerite d'Autriche 287 Eglise de Brou: Ornament from the Tomb of Marguerite d'Autriche 290 Princess Marguerite d'Autriche 292 Sketch Map of South Burgundy 293 [Illustration: Heading, chapter I] CHAPTER I BENEATH THE MOUNT We had expected quiet, rural times in this far-away village of St.-Léger-sous-Beuvray; but I doubt whether we shall get them. The village green in front of the Hotel du Morvan shows signs of unusual animation; it is dotted with carts, which are discharging tent-poles, canvas, golden cars, and other paraphernalia of a country festival; and, surer sign still, through the door of an open shed, I can see hanging, headless and lamentable, the gaping corpse of a fatted calf. Yes! there is his tawny countenance and two mild eyes looking down, like those of a martyred saint, from the cruel hook. The odour of him, wafted in succulent puffs, from the dead-house door, has cheered with a splendid hope half the dogs in the village, and awakened from torpor two ancient hounds, who prowl, almost youthfully, sniffing fragrant memories in the air. "What is going to happen?" I asked the landlord, who was sharpening tools on a bench. "'Tis the Louée, Monsieur, the hiring that takes place every year. All in the neighbourhood who want farm-hands, or domestic servants, and those who want places, come to-morrow morning and make bargains. And the Directeur of Enfants Assistés (Foundlings) is coming, too; he is to stop here at my hotel, and so his children get work." We were up early the next morning. Only deaf men, or dead ones, sleep through a Louée. There came to us in our bedroom, with the sunshine, an indescribable babel of sounds--babble of voices, braying of trumpets, banging of drums. To a Londoner, strange methods of doing business!