Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South BurgundyAllen, Percy
History
Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South Burgundy
Allen, Percy
Burgundy (France) -- Description and travel
[125] "Curiosities of Literature," Disraeli, quoted in "Abélard and
Héloïse," Temple Classics. The tomb was removed later to Père la
Chaise, the great cemetery of Paris.
[126] Duke Philippe le Bon was in Flanders at the time; but he had sent
Toison d'Or to officiate as judge in his place. Barante, Tome
VII., p. 284.
[127] Olivier de la Marche. Mémoires, Petitot's edition, cap. xxi.,
pp. 5-11.
[128] De Barante, Tome VII., pp. 284-5.
[129] Petit, Tome VI., p. 20.
[Illustration: Heading, chapter XI; The Saône near Tournus]
CHAPTER XI
TOURNUS BY THE SAONE
Tournus is an attractive old town, lying asleep on a hill beside the
Saône. Through it ran, north and south, the old Roman road of Agrippa.
Its chief monument, the church of the ancient abbey of St. Philibert,
whether viewed from within or from without, is one of the most striking
examples I know, of the barbaric majesty of early Burgundian art. The
grim façade, with its two-storied narthex of three bays--the oldest
Clunisian porch--and its machicolations and towers, recalls the
fortified churches of Provence and Languedoc, built when the southern
land still shook with fear at the thought of the northern "crusaders,"
or the sea-pirates of the south. Nor does the sight of the interior do
other than confirm that impression.
Passing through the lower storey of the gloomy portal, that might well
have served to imprison the bodies of men--just as, symbolically, it
was a shadowy ante-chamber, a purgatory of souls not yet fitted for the
full light of Paradise--we emerged into a church whose rugged strength
had in it something awful and menacing, suggestive of a period even
more barbaric than that eleventh century in which the nave and narthex
were built.
This impression may possibly have a historical as well as an
imaginative basis, owing to the fact that the church has been twice
destroyed--first by the Huns, and later by fire--both disasters
occurring so soon after construction, that the original design may have
been adhered to closely.[130]
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