Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South BurgundyAllen, Percy
History
Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South Burgundy
Allen, Percy
Burgundy (France) -- Description and travel
We shall hear more of these Burgundian Tournaments when we come to
speak of the royal court at Dijon, and the festivities of the Tree
of Charlemagne. Here I conclude the subject, for the present, merely
reminding my readers that these heavily armoured and comparatively
innocuous fights were but the slow development of sterner combats,
such as that which occurred in 1273, when Edward I. of England passed
through Burgundy, on his way to meet Philip III. returning from
Italy. The Burgundians, wishing fittingly to celebrate the occasion,
organized a tourney at Chalon-Sur-Saône. "There was a battle," says
Mathew of Westminster, "but the English were victors and slew several
who were despoiling the conquered; but as these last were men of small
condition, the matter was not followed up."[129]
* * * * *
Modern Chalon-Sur-Saône has not very much that is attractive. The most
interesting streets are those around the old cathedral of St. Vincent,
before which, on Sunday morning, there is a busy market scene. The
church is a fairly good specimen of Burgundian Gothic of the 12th to
14th centuries; but it appears to have been so much restored that a
dogmatic opinion concerning its age would be unusually dangerous. The
choir appears to be of the 13th century, and the arches, with unribbed
vaults, of the late 12th. Strong Roman and Byzantine influence is
everywhere apparent, and there are some rich late Gothic side chapels.
The upper part of the design betrays the same fault as at St. Bénigne
de Dijon. The triforium--weakly designed--and the parapet above it,
are lifted up to the clerestory, leaving an unsightly space of bare
wall above the arches of the nave. The shafts of the high vault are
taken down, as usual, on to fluted pilasters, with highly ornamented
capitals. The façade of the church is modern, and unsuccessful.
In the old quarter, I remember one particularly good timbered Gothic
house, known as the Maison de Bois.
[Illustration: MAISON DE BOIS. CHALON SUR SAONE]
FOOTNOTES:
[116] And he knew it. "I enjoyed at that time so great a renown, and
I so outshone all with the glamour of youth and beauty, that I
needed to fear no refusal, whoever might be the woman to whom I
chanced to address myself."
[117] "La Passion d'Héloïse et d'Abélard," Bertheroy, p. 45.
[118] "quel giorno più non vi leggemmo avanti," Inferno, Canto V., 138.
[119] Bertheroy, p. 97.
[120] Paraclet--The Consoler, the Holy Ghost.
[121] Abélard's letter to Philintus. "Love Letters of Abélard and
Héloïse," p. 19, Temple Classics.
[122] Lord Lyttleton, "Life of Henry II.," quoted in "Abélard." Temple
Classics.
[123] We swim.
[124] Bertheroy, p. 176.
The tablet to the memory of Abélard, in the Church of St. Marcel
is a conventionally worded Latin inscription, setting forth his
virtues, the date of his death (1142) and the fact of his removal
to Paraclet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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