From the Pierre de la Wivre we could see, on the next headland to our left, the ridge of Pierre Salvée sharply serrated against the sky. There, half an hour later, we found ourselves rewarded by a glorious sight. Westward we could see extending mile upon mile, ridge after ridge, the glowing mountains of Auvergne, and the valley of the Loire, veiled in a shimmering mist, through whose mysterious wreaths flashed, here and there, in diamond splendour, the sun-touched roof of a humble cottage and the tower of a lordly chateau.[9] With all the thousand other interesting details concerning Bibracte--the Gaulish roads, the ramparts, the remains, the descriptions and industries of the town, the visits of Cæsar--I have no space to deal here; but I recommend particularly to the reader Hamerton's book, from which I have quoted, and M. Dechelette's handy guide, "L'Oppidum de Bibracte." We cycled from St. Léger to Autun, by way of La Grand Verrière Monthelon, and the Valley of the Arroux. Monthelon, some seven kilometres from Autun, is a place famous in French Ecclesiastical history. It has, as is common in Burgundian villages, a delightful little Romanesque Church, concerning one of whose curés Hamerton tells a good story which I cannot refrain from giving in the original tongue. This old curé, then, was fond of putting Latin into his sermons, a little bit at a time, his own Latin; not of the best. "'Lorsque je paraîtrai devant Notre Seigneur, il me demandera; 'Curé Monthelonius, ubi sunt brebetis meis'--ce qui veut dire; 'Curé de Monthelon, où sont me brebis?' Et moi je lui répondrai; 'bêtes je les ai trouvées, bêtes je les ai laissées, et bêtes elles sont très probablement encore.'" Can you refrain from reading "The Mount" after that? [Illustration: End of chapter I; dragon] FOOTNOTES: [2] Hamerton's "The Mount," p. 26. [3] Alesia, though intensely interesting, lacks the mysterious quality of Beuvray. [4] De Bello Gallico, lib. 1, cap. 23: "By far the finest and largest town of the Aedui." [5] I am told that the fouilles are open every year during a part of the month of August. [6] Hamerton says, that, on a clear day you can see Mont Blanc, 157 miles as the crow flies. It is the distance from London to Scarborough. [7] "The Mount," pp. 54-56. [8] "The Mount," pp. 103-4. [9] The Pierre Salvée has no legend; the name is probably derived from some ancient divinity. [Illustration: Heading, chapter II; The Porte St. André] CHAPTER II THE ROMAN CITY In the railway station of Autun we had waited long for our bicycles to be taken out of the train. They did not appear. The porters were all busy with a cattle-truck that they were pushing casually down a siding, till it was stopped in mid-career by the buffers of another truck.