Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South BurgundyAllen, Percy
History
Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South Burgundy
Allen, Percy
Burgundy (France) -- Description and travel
Another of the guardian castles of Cluny, that to which in dangerous
times the treasures, charts, and title deeds of the Abbey were taken,
was the Château de Lourdon. It was pillaged in 1575 by the partisans
of the Duc d'Alençon, who burned so many of the original papers that
Claude de Guise, after his reconciliation with Henry IV., obtained
letters patent rendering valid the existing copies of the parchments.
In 1632, Richelieu, who had obtained possession of the Abbey of Cluny,
ordered the demolition of the donjon and castle of Lourdon, a command
so faithfully carried out that nothing was left of the fortress, except
what is to be seen to-day--a ruined ivy-hung wall, its line broken by
a round tower, through whose windows you can see the concierge moving,
and by a curious row of great columns, like organ pipes, now generally
supposed to be the remains of a kind of mediæval tennis court. From the
castle rising high above the bush-covered rocks, you can look down over
the grape vines to the village of Lourdon, and the hills of the Grosne
valley. Looking up at it, through the houses of the village street, it
must have appeared a not unworthy guardian of a trust so great as were
the treasures of Cluny.
The best way to get there by the valley road from Cluny, is to turn up
the hill when you come to a small sentinel tower. If you ask the way,
you will probably be told, as we were, to turn at the next lane, which
is longer, less convenient, and gives a much less striking approach
to the castle. Persistent mis-direction of strangers is a common
Burgundian failing.
* * * * *
Those who have wandered about the streets of Cluny may have happened
upon the late fifteenth century, or early sixteenth century, house of
the Prat family, the ancestors of the poet Lamartine, whose name is
frequently heard by travellers in the Mâconnais or the Dauphiné; though
the nation as a whole, soon forgot him, after that swiftly rising wave
of latin enthusiasm had swept him into the seats of the mighty, and,
receding, had dragged him with it, to face, as best he might, the
obscure, penniless life of a literary hack.
His birthplace, at Milly, is not now in existence; but the prospect
of seeing the family Château de Saint Point, where part of his youth,
and some later years of retirement, were passed, tempted me to pay a
visit to that valley. In a very improbable, though naturally written
and pathetic study of rustic life, "Le Tailleur de Pierres de St.
Point"--he who died of that, unhappily, rare malady, the love of
God--we have Lamartine's own description of his home.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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