Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South BurgundyAllen, Percy
History
Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South Burgundy
Allen, Percy
Burgundy (France) -- Description and travel
From the mountain side projects a low hill "dominated at its summit
by an old castle flanked by compact towers, and by the notched spire
of a romanesque church tower. At the foot of the hill are pastures
bordered with alders, cherry and large nut trees, between whose trunks
can be seen the walls, roofs and rustic bridge of a hamlet built in
the shadow of the castle and comprising fifteen or twenty cottages of
workmen, small farmers or shopkeepers, all grouped around the village
church. These old towers, undermined at their bases by the weather,
and cracked by the weight of stone above them, shorn of the spires
at their summits, are useless to-day, except to flank a heavy square
mass of naked stone, pierced with a winding stair and several vaulted
rooms--such is my abode.... Thence the view, falling and rising,
extends over the most beautiful part of the valley of St. Point. One's
glance, following the rapid slope of the pastures, rests upon a field
through the middle of which runs the river 'Vallonge.' Great nut trees
with bronze foliage, motionless as metal leaves, poplars with trunks
storm-twisted, and with foliage more hairy and whiter than the head of
an old man, European cypresses, alders, birches, willows rescued by me,
twenty-five years ago now, from the bill of the tree-trimmer, leaning
from bank to bank of the river they love and are loved by, interwoven
over its course, form a lofty, floating, capricious vault of foliage of
every tint, a very mosaic of vegetation. The lightest airs of summer
sway this moving curtain, and summon thence waves of sound, breathings,
the watery sheen of leaves, flights of birds and vegetable scents,
which gladden the eyes, vary the outlook, and rise in sweet sounds and
wandering fragrances to the balcony of my house."
This balcony was the construction in sculptured stone, in imitation
of the old Gothic Balustrades of Oxford, that he had added to the
principal façade. Here the peacocks perching, day and night, bordered
its heavy stones with a row of living caryatides, as they spread their
brilliant tails to the sun.[95]
Meanwhile, with such passages as these in my mind, I was making for
the village. Having climbed the winding staircase that leads up to
the terraced churchyard, I saw, as I drew near, across the tangled
graves, the tomb of Lamartine, a pretentious, but quite unsuccessful,
production, in bastard gothic style, the interior hung round with
horrible wreaths of artificial flowers. On a pedestal was a bust of the
poet, with a metal urn on each side, and, below, a recumbent statue of
his wife, and memorials of other descendants.
It was with a feeling of intense relief that I turned from the
artificial to the real, to the monument in which nature's art, that is
not artifice, has immortalized the memory of Lamartine.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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