It was a common notion that the English intended to take the country,
the Survey being only preparatory to that step. The land was being
parcelled out, and cairns erected on the high mountains where the chief
men would build their houses. The surveyors were looking for crosses
cut on the ruins, and intended to claim ownership of all such places.
Most of the peasantry believed they were seeking for hid treasure,
which by incantation would be wafted to England. Sometimes they dug
for gold under the cairns; often they pulled them down, and had in
consequence to be imprisoned. A shepherd saw the party levelling, and
had a vague idea they were making a railway, “Will you let the sea
into Jordan?” he asked, “or will the steamships go on wheels?” “The
best idea” (says Conder) “was that we were sent by the Sultan to see
what villages had become ruinous, and to remit their taxes. We were
favourites then!”
The work of the Survey was not carried out without frequent
discomforts. For instance, the Bukei’a plain is good corn land, “but
seems to have a bad natural drainage, and our mules floundered in deep
bogs, sometimes up to their girths. Farther north we began to descend
a long valley, and came on a different kind of country, a basaltic
outbreak appeared, and cliffs tilted in every direction; the valley bed
was strewn with fragments of hard basalt. Passing over a bare ridge we
descended into a most desolate valley where a muddy stream was flowing.
We had ridden 15 miles, and it now began to rain again. We found to our
dismay that this was where we had to camp, as no other supply of water
existed in a position central to the new work. We soon made a still
more unpleasant discovery. The valley was full of clear springs, but
they were all tepid and salt. If the Survey was to be done at all, it
appeared that we should have to drink brackish water for ten days or
more. Here, then, we sat down on the wet grass, in a driving drizzle of
rain, by the brackish stream: not a soul was to be seen, either Bedawi
or peasant, and it was evident that food would have to be brought from
a distance. The mules soon arrived with our tents and beds, which
though soaked with rain, we set up on the bare ground. Of course all
the party were cross, and thought themselves injured. I had a very bad
cold and rheumatism, and Habib had tic-douloureux. The Arabs looked
wretched; but I was glad they should have their share of the hardships,
for, unlike our Abu Nuseir friends at Jericho, they were the most lazy
and good-for-nothing tribe we had come across.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account