Again, at the miserable little hamlet of _El B’aineh_--between
Lake Tiberias and the Mediterranean--they found the inhabitants all
fever-stricken from the malarious exhalations of the great swamp,
which even as late as July extended over half the plain. The place
was evidently unhealthy, and they were tortured by armies of huge
mosquitoes, rendering sleep impossible at night. Attacks of fever were
frequent. “Once or twice” (says Conder) “the fit came on while I was
riding, and I can imagine nothing more disagreeable than to be 10 miles
from home on a rough road, with a fever headache.”
One night the Sukr Arabs tried to steal the horses, but the big dog
gave a sharp bark, and the thieves were seen and fired on just as they
reached the tethering rope. In another place, when the dog had been
left behind, a thief came into the tents, ripped up the saddle-bag
containing the provisions and took them all with him, besides the tin
washing-basin, and the plates, bread, chickens, and barley from the
servants’ tents--all being noiselessly and neatly accomplished in about
ten minutes. The next morning the party were without food.
But there were worse things than these to endure. In the district of
David’s wanderings Corporal Brophy was attacked by four cowherds, who
abused him as a “pig,” and threatened to stone him. He had, indeed,
some difficulty in escaping. “The first really serious attack on the
party” (says Conder), “though not the last nor the worst, was made near
Mount Carmel. Sergeant Black was quietly surveying near the village of
_El Harithiyeh_, where, as it appeared afterwards in evidence, a fete
or ‘fantasia’ was being held. The young men were firing at a mark, and
one or more turning at right angles, deliberately fired at the sergeant
on the neighbouring hill. He must have been in no little danger, as he
brought home two bullets which had fallen near him.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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