By way of Cape Horn : $b four months in a Yankee clipperStevenson, Paul Eve
History
By way of Cape Horn : $b four months in a Yankee clipper
Stevenson, Paul Eve
Hosea Higgins (Ship); Seafaring life; Voyages to the Pacific coast
The blighting sarcasm with which he said this put the second mate’s
temper on edge again, and I expect that he’ll store this up against
the skipper for possible future use, for he is unquestionably a fine
sailor-man.
It is rather remarkable that we have caught no fish lately, as the sea
in the vicinity of the Abrolhos Islands is the greatest fishing-ground
on the whole Brazilian seaboard. For twenty-four hours now we have
been on soundings with an average depth of forty fathoms; and while
the water is of a dirty green color, it is wonderfully phosphorescent,
though not quite equalling the water on the equator; still, when the
patent log was hauled in last evening at eight o’clock (it hung up and
down at that hour), the line was a rope of fire, dripping with silver
sparks, and long after it had been coiled away over a pin it continued
to emit brilliant flashes of phosphoric light.
Our new main-topgallant-yard is coming along nicely. It is being
trimmed down from one of the double top-gallant-yards which the ship
used to carry; this is a rather remarkable fact, that if a vessel
carries double top-gallant-sails the yards will be larger in every
way than if they were single. It would be hard to conceive a more
gnome-like appearance than that presented by the carpenter to-day as he
was hewing at the spar with an adze, seen from a distance of about one
hundred feet; nearer, the illusion vanished. But his tall, peaked felt
hat, immensely broad face, open dungaree-jumper which refused to meet
over his globular person, and short, fat legs, lent him, when he rested
on his adze with wide-spread feet, a wonderfully elfin aspect.
In a squall this morning I noticed that the mate wore for the first
time a tremendously thick garment of red cloth, which he called a
llama coat, being made of the wool or hair of that quadruped. It looked
something like a flannel shirt, but was not split up the sides, and
seemed to be as thick as a felt slipper. Mr. Goggins says that he
has never yet seen the rain which can penetrate it. Perhaps the most
remarkable thing about it is the fact that he has worn it for fifteen
years and intends to wear it fifteen more. How sailors hate oil-skins!
Their aversion to them is universal, and seems to be unreasonable. The
captain, for instance, has several ancient, heavy suits which he calls
his Cape Horn clothes. Whenever his presence is required for any length
of time in a heavy rain, he dons one of these suits and goes on deck in
a soft felt hat and a pair of slippers, only to return in fifteen or
twenty minutes with dripping garments, his slippers sobbing at every
step; in two minutes, though, he is arrayed in another suit, with the
same foot-gear, and marches on deck again to repeat this operation as
long as his dry clothes hold out. All this for dislike of oil-skins and
boots. Latitude, 19° 56′ south; longitude, 38° 15′ west.
+June 19+
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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