By-ways on Service: Notes from an Australian JournalDinning, Hector
History
By-ways on Service: Notes from an Australian Journal
Dinning, Hector
World War, 1914-1918 -- Personal narratives, Australian
I dare not enter on the multiplicity of the charm of the bazaars: more
accurately, I cannot. The dazzling incongruity of vendors and of wares
under the over-meeting structures multiplies multiplicity. They move
and cry up and down classified bazaars. A vociferous Arab hawks a cow
for sale through the boot-bazaar; the delicious Arabian perfumes of
the picturesque scent bazaar are fouled by a crier of insanitary food;
Jews, French, Italians, Tunisians, Greeks, and Spaniards jostle each
other through the alleys of the tent bazaar, braziers' bazaar, bazaar
of the weavers, book bazaar--bazaar of any commodity or industry you
care to name; and the proprietors and artificers squat on their tiny
floors, maybe four feet square. In the busy forenoon, looking up the
Mooski, it is as though the wizard had been there: almost you look
for the djin to materialise. Rich colour is splashed over the stalls
and the throng; there is music in the jingle of wares and the hum of
voices; and the sober and graceful mosque, its rich colour gently
mellowed by centuries of exposure, lifts a minaret above the animation.
If this is the complexity of the broad view, what contrasts are thrust
at you from the detail of men and things, as you saunter through!
Here in the Mooski is the micro-Cairo--Cairo bodied forth in little,
except for the intruding official set and the unrestrained quarter of
the brothels. But less truthfully might you set out to picture the real
Cairo with the former than without the latter. Any account which passes
without note the incessant trade--in the high-noon as under the garish
night-lights--driven by the women of Cairo will altogether misrepresent
the city. It is with a hideous propriety that she should stand
partly on the site of Old Babylon. She is a city which, in perhaps
her most representative quarter, lives in and for lasciviousness. The
details of that trade in its thoroughgoing haunts are no more to be
described than looked upon. There is no shame; sexual transactions are
conducted as openly and on as regular and well-established a footing
of bargaining and market values as the sale of food and drink. Meat
and drink, indeed, they must furnish to much of the population, and
its alimentary properties are to be seen at every corner and in every
gutter in hideousness of feature and disease unutterable. Not Paris,
nor Constantinople, approaches in shamelessness the conduct of venereal
industry in Cairo. All the pollution of the East would seem to drain
into their foul pool. That which is nameless is not viewless. I speak
that I do know and testify that I have seen. The phrase, the act, every
imagination of the heart of man (and of woman), is impregnated with the
filth of hell.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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