By-ways on Service: Notes from an Australian Journal — John Shaqi
By-ways on Service: Notes from an Australian JournalDinning, Hector
History
By-ways on Service: Notes from an Australian Journal
Dinning, Hector
World War, 1914-1918 -- Personal narratives, Australian
Alfresco cafés are ubiquitous. Their frequency and pleasantness suggest
that the heat of Australia would justify their establishment there in
very large numbers. Chairs and tables extend on to the footpaths. The
people of all nations lounge there in their fez caps, drinking much,
talking more, gambling most of all. Young men from the University
abound; much resemble, in their speech and manner, the young men of
any other University. They deal in witty criticism of the passengers,
but show a readiness in repartee with them of which only an Arab
undergraduate is capable.
The gambling of the cafés is merely symbolic of the spirit of gambling
which pervades the city. It is incipient in the Arab salesman's love
of bargaining for its own sake. The commercial dealings of Egypt,
wholesale and retail alike, are said to want fixity in a marked degree.
Downright British merchants go so far as to call it by harder names
than the "spirit of gambling." The guides are willing to bet you
anything on the smallest provocation. Lottery tickets are hawked about
the streets like sweetmeats; there are stalls which sell nothing but
lottery tickets, and thrive upon the sale.
You will see much, sitting in these cafés at your ease. Absinthe and
coffee are the drinks. Coffee prevails, served black in tiny china
cups, with a glass of cold water. It is a delicious beverage: the
coffee fiend is not uncommon. Cigarettes are the habitual smoke in the
streets. At the cafés you call for a hubble-bubble. They stand by the
score in long racks. The more genteel (and hygienic) customers carry
their own mouth-pieces, but it is not reckoned a sporting practice.
You cannot sit five minutes before the vendors beset you with edibles,
curios, prawns, oranges, sheep's trotters, cakes, and post-cards. The
boys who would polish your boots are the most noisome. The military
camps in the dusty desert have created an industry amongst them. A
dozen will follow you a mile through the streets. If you stop, your leg
is pulled in all directions, and nothing but the half-playful exercise
of your cane upon the sea of ragged backs saves you from falling in.
The streets swarm with guides, who apparently believe either that you
are inevitably bound for the Pyramids or incapable of walking through
the bazaars unpiloted. And a guide would spoil any bazaar, though at
the Pyramids he may be useful. If you suggest you are your own guide,
the dog suggests an assistant. They are subtle and hard to be rid of,
and frequently abusive when you are frank. The hawkers and solicitors
of the streets of Cairo have acquired English oaths, parrot-wise. The
smallest boy has got this parasitic obscenity with a facility that
beats any Australian newsboy in a canter.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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