I once visited the rock Rimmon of Judges xx. 47. The first part of the
journey was made in company with Lieutenant Vandevelde, going from
Jericho to Bethel, a totally-unknown road; it must have been the same as
that taken by Joshua after the fall of Jericho.
This was in 1852. The Arabs were unwilling to take us in that direction,
probably on account of some local hostilities to which they might be
exposed. At first they denied there was any road that way, then said it
was so difficult that we could not reach Bethel in less than two days,
which was ridiculous, considering the shortness of the distance. At
length we resolved to find a road without them, and ordered the luggage
to go round by Khatroon, or if necessary by Jerusalem, but to meet us at
Bethel that night.
Shaikh Mohammed el Hejjaz then sent with us his slave Suliman. By his
having that Moslem name, I should suppose this to be a freed-man,
inasmuch as it is not the custom to give Moslem or Christian names to
slaves; they may be only called Jewel, Diamond, Cornelian, Thursday,
Friday, etc. It is not uncommon for a freed-man to be still called in
popular speech _a slave_; but not in serious earnest or in matters of
business, and not unless they are blacks from Africa.
It is not unusual in the East for a slave, even though still in bondage,
to be educated in reading and writing, to be trained in military
accomplishments, and so to be employed as confidential agent of property,
or trainer of children in the family, riding the best horses and carrying
weapons of best quality. And this Suliman was a bright specimen of that
class of men,--of good bodily presence, merry-humoured, and
well-accoutred.
The first part of the journey in crossing the Quarantana mountain was
precipitous, and even dangerous for strangers; but the summit being
attained, the whole of the remaining distance was a level plain. We were
upon remains of an ancient road, with wells frequently occurring by the
wayside; many of them, however, choked up with stones and earth.
Plodded quietly along, when, about two hours from Jericho, we were
surprised by hearing human wailing and cries for mercy near us. This was
discovered to come from a boy of about twelve years of age who had
concealed himself behind a bush of _ret'm_, (juniper of Scripture.) He
had never seen Europeans before, and, on perceiving the Hejjaz slave at
our head, was apprehensive that we should plunder him of his ass and her
foal. He was a peasant of _Dair Dewan_, {203} a village on the way
before us.
In half an hour more we came up to a cleanly-dressed and pleasant-looking
shepherd lad, who was not at all afraid of us. He conducted us to a well
of good water, named _Beer Mustafa_, a little off the road, at the
heading of the small wadi _Krishneh_; there we rested half an hour.
In another hour we reached the ruins of Abu Sabbakh, from which we had
_Remmoon_ visible on our right.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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