During all the day's journey we passed through a good deal of wheat and
barley cultivation, the crops ripening fast, it being at the beginning of
May.
In another half hour we arrived at Dair Dewan, the Beth-aven of
Scripture, {204} a flourishing village,--remarkably so, as evinced by its
buildings, its fruit orchards, and corn fields all around. Progress in
such affairs is a sure token of a village being peopled by Christians.
In the well-kept cemetery belonging to the place, it was pleasant to see
an enormous quantity of large blue iris flowers growing between the
graves, and often concealing them from view till nearly approached.
Turning abruptly westward, in twenty minutes we came to the hill of
stones called Tell-el-hajjar, which I had on a former occasion identified
as the site of Ai, lying as it does between Beth-aven and Bethel, (Josh.
viii.,) and having the deep valley alongside northwards. Here Vandevelde
took bearings, with his theodolite, of points within sight; and in a
quarter of an hour from this we reached Bethel, (now called Bait-een,)
that is in less than five hours, including an hour's stoppage at the Tell
from the 'Ain-es-Sultan by Jericho, where the Arabs had, for their own
reasons, tried to persuade us that the journey was impossible, or would
at least occupy two days.
Our tents and luggage arrived soon after we did. Bait-een has been so
often described, and its biblical events so often quoted by travellers,
that it is not necessary to do so while professedly dealing only with
byeways in Palestine; yet this may be said, that no distance of time can
entirely efface the exquisite pleasure of exploring ground and sites so
accurately corresponding as this did to the topography of the Bible, and
belonging to events of such antiquity as the acts of Abraham and Joshua.
In the morning I separated from my friends, who were preceding towards
Damascus, and, accompanied by Suliman and a kawwas, went on my way to
_Remmoon_, (the rock Rimmon.) Started at half-past seven in a thick
shirocco atmosphere, keeping on the northern high road for about a
quarter of an hour in the direction of _Yebrood_, then turned sharply
eastwards over corn-fields, and descended into a deep hot valley. The
flowers of the field were chiefly cistus, red or white, and hollyhocks
four feet high. Then ascended to at least a corresponding height into
terraces of fruit-trees well-cultivated; and still mounting, to a fine
plain of wheat, at the end of which was Remmoon, one hour and a quarter
from Bait-een.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account