The village is built upon a mass of calcareous rock, commanding
magnificent views towards the south, including the Dead Sea and the line
of the Jordan; higher hills bounded the north, on which was conspicuous
the town of _Tayibeh_, near which is a _weli_ or _mezar_ (pilgrimage
station) named after St George, who is an object of veneration to both
Moslems and Christians. The people of Tayibeh are all or mostly
Christians, and have a church with a resident priest.
We rode up the street of Remmoon, and found the shaikh and principal men
of the town lazily smoking in the shadow of a house.
My object was of course to inquire for a cavern that might be capable of
containing six hundred men during four months. The people all denied the
existence of such a cavern, but after some parley I was conducted to two
separate caverns on the west side of the hill, then to two others on the
eastern side which are larger, and to each of which we had to arrive
through a house built at its opening. They told me of two others upon
the hill, but of much inferior size. Those that I entered were not
remarkable for dimensions above the many that are to be found over the
country. It is probable that the whole of the refugees might sleep in
these several places, if there were no village there at the time, which
seems probable; but it was merely my own preconceived notion that they
all lived in one vast cavern. The text of Judg. xx. 47 does not say so.
The village is in good condition, and the cultivation excellent in every
direction around it. On leaving it for the return to Jerusalem I
proceeded due southwards. In the fields the people were industriously
clearing away stones--a sure symptom of peace, and consequent
improvement.
Crossed a valley named _Ma'kook_, and arrived at _Mukhinas_ (Michmash) in
less than two hours from Remmoon. Rested in the fine grove of
olive-trees in the valley on the north of the town for an hour. The
birds were singing delightfully, though the time was high noon, and our
horses enjoyed some respite from the sanguinary green flies which had
plagued them all the way from Remmoon; their bellies and fetlocks were
red with bleeding. In this matter I particularly admired the benevolence
of the slave Suliman. Yesterday, after a sharp run across a field,
perhaps in the vain hope of escaping the tormentors, he dismounted, and
the mare followed him, walking like a lamb. He then sat down to switch
away the flies, and rub her legs inwards and outwards. To-day he had
taken off his Bedawi kefieh, or bright-coloured small shawl, from around
his head, and suspended it between her legs, then, as he rode along, was
continually switching between her ears with a long bunch of the wild
mustard-plant.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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