Close beside us was a gigantic mulberry tree, around which two very large
vines climbed to a great height, and a channel of running water almost
surrounded the roots.
I never heard such sweet-toned bells as the flocks about there carried,
and which gave out their music near and far at every movement of the
goats and sheep.
In the morning we left this very pleasant spot and went on to _Lejjoon_;
crossed the Sufsafeh and the other streams with their oleander borders,
and enjoyed the magnificent prospects of Hermon, Tabor, and the plain;
rested on the hill of _Kaimoon_ under the fine oak-tree of former
acquaintance, and at length arrived in Caiffa.
IV. FROM CARMEL SOUTH-EASTWARDS.
_April_ 1859.
The usual way by _'Ain Sa'adeh_, _Beled esh Shaikh_ and _Yajoor_; the
woody sides of Carmel diversified in colour at this season of spring;
there was the dark green of the bellota oak, the yellow of the abundant
broom, the dark red-brown of the sprouting terebinth and the pale green
of young-leafed trees of many other kinds. There was, moreover, the
fragrance of an occasional pine, and of the hawthorn, (Za'aroor,) which
is of stronger scent than in England; and the ground was sprinkled with
purple and yellow crocuses; also with anemones of every shade of purple
and white, besides the scarlet, which alone are found in Judaea, but
there in profusion.
Turning off from the road to Jeneen, I rose upon high ground, and came to
_Umm ez Zeenat_, (mother of beauties.) Our people were of opinion that
this name did not apply so much to the daughters of the village as to the
landscape scenery, for near it we commanded an extensive prospect,
including Hermon with its snows one way, and the "great and wide sea" in
the opposite quarter.
We lost our way for a time, leaving _Rehhaneeyeh_ on our left, and
straying as far as _Daliet er Rohha_; on recovering the right road we
arrived at _Cuferain_, (the "double village") and to _Umm el Fahh'm_,
marching among silent woods often tangled by neglected growth, and
abounding in a variety of unknown trees, besides the Seringa and the oaks
with much broader leaves than are ever seen in the south; also, for a
long period we had frequent recurring views of snowy Hermon in the N.E.
The considerable village of _'Aneen_ we found almost entirely broken up,
by the recent warfare between the partisans of Tokan and 'Abdu'l Hadi.
At length our repeated calls and promises echoing among the apparently
forsaken houses, brought out an old man, and he promised to procure a
guide to take us within sight of _'Arabeh_, after which several women
peered out of their miserable dwellings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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