The guide conducted us through large woods on heights and in depths,
among fragrant herbs and blossoming trees growing wild, till some time
after sunset, when we stopped for the night at a poor village called
_Harakat_; we were all tired, but especially the two women of a Christian
party going to Jerusalem, who had attached themselves to us all the day
for the benefit of our protection.
The ground on which the tent was set up was wet, as there had been some
rain at the place that day, and springs of water were running to waste
near us; the village people served as guards around us, on being fed at
our expense; the pilgrims spread their beds in one direction outside the
tent, and the kawwases in the opposite.
By the light of a brilliant morning we marched forwards to _'Arabeh_,
which was being besieged by the Turkish government, in force of infantry,
cavalry, and artillery.
VIII. BELAD BESHARAH.
This is the mountainous district lying east and south of Tyre, probably
the "Galilee of the Gentiles;" bounded on the north by the river
_Kasimiyeh_, the ancient Leontes; on the west by the plain of Tyre; on
the east by the plain of Hhooleh and of the Upper Jordan; on the south by
hills around Safed: the district is very little known to Europeans, and
was much less so in 1848.
In that year I entered it from the North, after traversing the Sidon
country, crossing the pleasant river with its rose-coloured border of
oleander and wild holly-oak at a ford wider than the average breadth of
the Jordan.
There we found abundance of noble trees, and some cottages near them, the
vines belonging to which climbed up those trees to a surprising height;
and the thickness of the vines exceeded any that I had any where or at
any time seen.
In front was the village of _Boorj_, and we mounted into a high
table-land commanding prospects of indescribable grandeur, which
comprised parts of both Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon, the extreme heights of
Sannin and Hermon being visible at once.
The day was one of hot shirocco, and there were fires of lime-kilns
visible in several directions, this season (late in autumn) being that
appropriated to such employment, after all the harvests are gathered in.
There were innumerable villages appearing in every direction. We passed
_Abasiyeh_ on our right; _Dar Meemas_ and _Izereiriyeh_ distant on the
left; _Tura_ on the right; _Dar Kanoon_ we almost entered; _Bidias_ near
us on the left; _Dair Thecla_ on our right; _Bursheen_ on the right;
_Durtghayer_ on the left; _Arzoon_ further on the left; then we rested
under some olive trees, with _Dar esh Shems_ on the right; _Mezra'a_ on
the left; _Dar Zibneh_ with a castle on our right.
In the distance appeared the mighty old castle of _Shukeef_ (_Belfort_ of
the Crusaders) upon an eminence, with Jebel esh Shaikh, or Hermon, rising
majestically behind it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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