Ascended a series of precipices, and, at some elevation, met two young
English gentlemen, with a pair of double-barrelled pistols shared between
them, and their fingers ready on the triggers. They had a tale to relate
of grievous exactions made by the Fellahheen of Petra,--which, however,
seemed to me, by their account, to have been brought on unconsciously by
themselves, in having taken an escort of Tiyahah Arabs from Nukh'l
instead of the Alaween; and they informed me that a clergyman from
Cambridge was still detained there, as he refused to comply with the
excessive demands of the people.
On what a stupendous scale is geology to be studied in Mount Seir, where
you have masses of red sandstone 1500 feet in depth; yellow sandstone
extending miles away in ranges of hills, and the sandy desert beneath;
all of this incapable of cultivation; and inspiring a sensation of deep
sadness, in connexion with the denunciations of God's prophecies!
At a quarter before four we caught the first glimpse of the Mezar of
Aaron's tomb, and at five pitched our tents on the rugged side of Hor,
among crags and scented plants, enlivened by numerous cuckoos, and the
sweet warbling of one little bird. What reminiscences of dear old
England the song of the cuckoos awakened! Now, however, from henceforth,
being in England, their song will infallibly recall the memory to large
bare mountains, extreme heat of climate, and the fragrance of Elijah's
ret'm plant.
During the last hour we had seen some blue pigeons, one partridge, and,
separately, two large eagles, to which our attention had been drawn by
their shadows moving on the ground before us; then, on looking upwards,
the royal birds were seen sailing along, silently and slowly, against the
blue vault of ether.
This had been the hottest day of our whole journey; and the atmosphere
became thick as the evening stole over the hills.
_April_ 6_th_.--Sunrise, Fahrenheit 77 degrees. In the morning we
advanced upwards towards Aaron's tomb. Walking in front of the luggage,
we met the clergyman of whom we had heard the day before. He had been
allowed to leave Petra on suffering the people to take money out of his
pockets,--reserving to himself the intention of complaining against them
officially to the consul in Jerusalem.
He had been to the summit of Hor, and pronounced the view from it to be
more grand and striking than that from Sinai. On bidding him farewell,
we took Selameh and one kawwas, for clambering on our hands and knees to
the summit, leaving the luggage to proceed and wait for us farther on;
but had to rest occasionally in the shade of large trees of 'Arar, which
Robinson considered to be the true juniper, and not the ret'm. The
latter (the _rothem_ of the Hebrew Bible, under which the Prophet Elijah
reposed) was very abundant, and covered with white blossom, shedding the
richest perfume. Is it possible that all this fragrance, and the
warbling of the birds, is but "wasted in the desert air?"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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