The mountain is all of dark-red colour; and the higher we ascended, the
more difficult we found the progress to be. At length all farther
advance seemed impossible, till, on looking round, we observed an
excavation for a well, with masonry around it; and beyond this were steps
cut into the rock, which rock was sloped at an angle of between fifty and
sixty degrees. This encouraged us to persevere.
Still higher, I picked up some tesserae of mosaic, and morsels of marble
and alabaster,--a piece of the latter now lies on the table before me.
At length we attained the highest peak, where there was scarcely more
space than sufficient to contain the small weli-building, which was at
the time untenanted, though we had expected to find a Moslem devotee in
permanent residence there.
[Picture: Small weli-building]
I utterly despair of being able to describe the prospect around us; and
can only say that extensive mountain-peaks lay in lines below, and might
be compared to those made upon embossed maps, but that the whole scene
was vast, savage, and abandoned to sombre desolation--both the hills and
the desert--in every direction.
The atmosphere was too thick and hazy to allow of very distant views.
Neither of the two waters--the Red Sea or the Dead Sea--was visible.
Let those who take pleasure in doing so, doubt that on that peak lies
interred Aaron, the first high priest of Israel, "the saint of the Lord,"
and that there was effected the first personal transfer of the pontifical
office from him to Eleazer his son. Rather let me believe that there my
unworthy footsteps have been placed on the same pieces of rock with the
two venerable brothers who led up the redeemed people from Egypt, "the
house of bondage," and that it was there they parted, leaving Moses to
carry on the task alone.
"Three Hebrew cradles, the Nile-palms under,
Rock'd three sweet babes upon Egypt's plain:
Three desert graves must those dear ones sunder,
Three sorrowful links of a broken chain.
Kadesh and Hor, and Nebo yonder,
Three waymarks now for the pilgrim train." {309}
I seated myself, and wrote a brief letter to a dear relative in England.
Entering the weli, we found near the door a common-looking tomb, with an
Arabic inscription,--which, however, I found too illegible to allow of
its being copied; and over the tomb was spread a pall of silk, striped in
red, green, and white, but much faded. Against a pillar, which supports
the roof, were hung rows of coloured rags and threads of yarn, with
snail-shells and sea-shells strung among them by way of further ornament.
A wooden bowl, at one end of the tomb, was probably intended to receive
alms for the support of the devotee who claims the place, and who
practises the curing of diseases by charms among the wild Arabs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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