The Arabic of their chants is unintelligible to towns-people; it is the
high classic language of Antar.
I had made acquaintance with these same men before at Tibneen Castle,
near the Lebanon, during a season of Bairam. Being Sunday, we requested
them to visit our tents in the morning. Our Arabs, however, and the
dragomans kept them singing till a late hour round the fires lighted
among the tents. It was a cheerful scene, in the clear starlight, and
the lustrous planet Venus reflected in the running stream.
_Monday_, 14_th_.--After breakfast, and an entertainment of music from
our troubadours, and the bestowing of our guerdon, these left us on their
way to the other camp at Na'oor; and our packing up commenced.
Strange medley of costumes and languages among the grand colonnades. Our
Arabs left us, having the luggage in charge, and indicating to us the
camping-ground where we were to meet again at night--thus leaving us in
care of the Saltiyeh friends of ours, who were to escort us to their town
and its neighbourhood, as the 'Adwan might not go there themselves.
Both the Christian and Moslem shaikhs of the town came to meet us on the
way. The former was a very old man; and he could with difficulty be
persuaded to mount his donkey in presence of a train so majestic, in his
eyes, coming from the holy city of Jerusalem.
We passed an encampment of _Beni Hhasan_. These people are few in
number, and exist under the shadow of the 'Adwan.
There were plenty of locusts about the country; but we soon came to a
vast space of land covered with storks, so numerous as completely to hide
the face of the earth, all of them busily employed in feeding--of course
devouring the locusts. So great is the blessing derived from the visits
of storks, that the natives of these countries regard it as a sin to
destroy the birds. On our riding among them they rose in the air,
entirely obscuring he sky and the sun from our view. One of our party
attempted to fire among them with his revolver, but, by some heedlessness
or accident, the bunch of barrels, being not well screwed down flew off
the stock and was lost for a time; it took more than half an hour's
search by all of us to find it again, and the Arabs considered this a
just punishment for wishing to kill such useful creatures.
We traversed a meadow where Shaikh Faisel, with a detachment of the
'Anezeh, had encamped for pasture, and only left it thirty-five days
before. His flocks and herds were described to us as impossible to be
counted; but our friends were unanimous in stating that his camels were
1500 in number.
Came to _Khirbet es Sar_, (_Jazer_?) whence the Dead Sea was again
visible. Our Arabs declared that they could distinguish the Frank
mountain, and see into the streets of Bethlehem. Here there is a mere
heap of ruin, with cisterns, and fragments of arches, large columns, and
capitals; also a very rough cyclopean square building of brown striped
flint in huge masses.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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