28_th_. Preparing for descent into the Jordan valley, I engaged, in
addition to the usual servants, a horseman of the Bashi Bozuk,
recommended by the local governor, Suliman Bek Tokan. It seemed prudent
to obtain this man's attendance, as he might be known and recognised by
disorderly persons throughout the turbulent and unknown country before
me, whatever might be his character for valour or discretion. Two of the
native Protestants of Nabloos accompanied me also for about four hours on
the way.
Passing Joseph's sepulchre and the village of _Asker_, (is not this
Sychar? it is near the traditional Jacob's Well,) we went northwards over
the plain of _Mukhneh_, equivalent to Makhaneh, "camp," in Hebrew, (the
_Moreh_ of Gen. xii. 6, Deut. xi. 30, and Judges vii. 1) having left the
eastern valley with _Salem_ (Gen. xxxiii. 18) on our right. To my
surprise the plain was soon and abruptly terminated at the foot of a very
lofty mountain, and we commenced a descent among chasms of great
convulsions of nature, displaying remarkable contortions of geological
strata. This brought us into the Wadi _En-Nab_, so called from the
growth there of a fruit-tree, (the Jujube,) bearing that name, better in
quality than anywhere else in Palestine; and, indeed, the tree is found
in but few other places. At the confluence of this valley with the Wadi
_Bedan_ there are several fragments of ancient columns remaining, quite
four feet in diameter.
Hitherto we had met many more peasants travelling with merchandise than I
had expected. They were all going in one direction, namely, towards
Nabloos, and therefore from Es-Salt in Gilead, beyond Jordan.
These, however, ceased after we had crossed the water of Wadi Bedan into
the larger _Wadi Fara'ah_,--which is, however, the high-road to Es-Salt.
Soon afterwards we observed, by our wayside, a square of solid ancient
masonry, three courses high. In England this would be certainly the
pedestal of some old demolished market-cross; but it may have been the
lower part of some memorial pyramid. In the previous year I had seen
just such another at Ziph (Josh. xv. 55,) beyond Hebron.
Then we came upon a distinct piece of Roman paved road, which showed that
we were upon the high-road between Neapolis and Scythopolis, _alias_
Shechem and Bethshan, _alias_ Nabloos and Beisan.--Crossed a stream
richly bordered with rosy-blossomed oleander, and soon turned the head of
the water. A demolished castle was on our right, commanding the entrance
of Wadi Fara'ah.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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