The morning was cool, and though our situation was entirely unsheltered,
I judged even the risk of exposure to the noontide sun, when it should
arrive, not to be refused, while it gave us the blessings of free air
from the sea and delivery from mosquitoes, which would certainly have
plagued us under the shade of the fruit-trees. There was a mean suburb
in front of our position, tenanted solely by Egyptians.
The sound of the distant sea rolling on the beach (though this was out of
sight,) was music to my ears. Near us was a fence of the prickly-pear,
(named _Saber_, or "patience" in Arabic.) One of our party referred to
its extraordinary degree of vitality, even under disadvantageous
circumstances. "Yes," replied the 'Asali, "she has drunk of the water of
life."
I went to visit the Lazaretto, and while conversing with the doctor (M.
Esperon,) and the Turkish superintendent, four wild Arabs were brought
in, their hands fettered and chains on their legs, accused of striking a
soldier near _Khan Yunas_. When identified by witnesses merely uttering
two or three words, they were removed, cruelly pushed about in their
chains and beaten on the head by the soldiers, who enjoyed the cowardly
fun which they would not dare to perpetrate had the fine tall fellows had
their limbs at liberty.
The captain of the Bashi-bozuk, having called at my tents with his
mounted troop, followed me to the Lazaretto.
Returning home, and after some rest, or rather a visit from some Greek
Christians which gave me no rest, I went to visit the newly-arrived
kaimakam, or governor, one of the celebrated 'Abdu'l-Hadi family of
Nabloos. His divan room was crowded with visitors of congratulation:
such as shaikhs of villages, and some dignified Arab chiefs; the latter
interceding on behalf of the men recently captured by the quarantine
people; the former soliciting their official investitures for their
several districts. The house was exceedingly mean and shattered, but
this medley of visitors formed an interesting subject of study.
I next visited the kadi, (judge,) who was holding his court in the open
air, with a canvas screen to shelter his head from the sun, in the midst
of orchards and a flower garden. A cause, in which some women were
vociferating and screeching in Arabic, (to which that language lends
peculiar facility,) was suspended in order to receive my visit, and the
litigants had to remain in silence at some distance till I left,
returning to the tents.
All the people here praise the air and water of Gaza, and declare that
disease of any kind is nearly unknown, except ophthalmia, which, of
course, can be generally prevented. Provisions are said to be cheap; but
the bread, as sold in the market, not so good as in Jerusalem or Nabloos.
Probably their excellent wheat is exported to a distance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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