_Saturday_, 5_th_.--Rode southwards on a day's excursion to Khan Yunas,
with my people and an escort of two of the quarantine Bashi-bozuk. One
of these, named Hadji Ghaneem, was a hardy old fellow, encircled by
pistols and swords; his old gun, that was slung at his back, had the
rusty bayonet fixed, perhaps fixed by the rust. The other, Hadji
Khaleel, was an amusing companion, with plenty to tell and fond of
talking.
Started before 7 A.M., passing between cornfields, with numerous larks
trilling in the air.
At some distance we came to a low hill lying on our right hand, all the
ground about being mere sea sand drifted inland. This is called
_Tell-ul-'Ejel_, "the Calf's Hill," so named from its being haunted by
the ghost of a calf, which no one has yet laid hold of, but whenever this
shall be accomplished the fortunate person will come into possession of
the boundless treasures concealed within the hill. Some say that this
good luck will happen to any one that is favoured with a dream of the
calf three times in succession. All our party professed to believe the
local tradition, especially one who had been in Europe, and from whom
such credulity had been less expected; but he was sure that some tales of
that nature are well founded, and if so, why not this? In my opinion, it
is probably a superstition connected with some ancient form of idolatry.
Half-way along our journey we came to a village called _Ed Dair_, (the
convent, perhaps the _Dair el Belahh_ of the list;) but this appellation
Dair is often given to any large old edifice of which the origin is
unknown. Here was a loop-holed Moslem tower occupied by twenty men of
the Bashi-bozuk. Such towers are called _Shuneh_ in the singular,
_Shuan_ in the plural.
_Khan Yunas_ is a hamlet of unburnt bricks, dirty and ruinous, which is
not always the case with other villages of that material; the reason of
this being so, I suppose to be, that most of its few houses are inhabited
by Turkish soldiers. This is the last station southwards held by the
sultan's forces, the next, _El Areesh_, being an Egyptian outpost. I was
desirous of visiting that place had time allowed, not only for the
satisfaction of curiosity on the above account, but in order to get some
idea from ocular inspection whether the little winter stream or Wadi
there could ever have been the divinely-appointed boundary of the land
promised to Abraham and his seed for ever. My prepossession is certainly
to the contrary.
However, I rode ten minutes beyond Khan Yunas, and sat to rest in a field
beneath a fig-tree; the day was hot and brilliant, but there was a fine
breeze coming in from the sea. The scene was picturesque enough, for
there was a mosque-minaret and a broken tower rising behind a thick grove
of palm-trees and orchards of fig, vine and pomegranate--a high bank of
yellow sand behind the houses of the village, and the dark blue
Mediterranean behind that.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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